Kathmandu Valley · Bhaktapur
Gai Jatra
गाईजात्रा
The festival of cows, held the day after Janai Purnima, when families who lost a member in the past year parade a cow, or a child dressed as one, through the old towns. It mixes grief and humour, and in Bhaktapur becomes a week of processions and stick dances.
Gai Jatra is about death and laughter at once. Hindu belief holds that cows help guide the souls of the dead, so families who have lost someone in the past year join a procession through their town with a cow, or a boy dressed as a cow with a painted mask, horns and a garland. Neighbours give food, coins and fruit to the participants. Walking together, families see they are not alone in their grief.
In Kathmandu, tradition credits King Pratap Malla with adding humour to the day. His queen was inconsolable after the death of their son, so he asked people to come out in costume and make jokes, promising a reward to anyone who could make her smile. Gai Jatra has since become a day of satire, when comedians and newspapers mock politicians and public figures.
Bhaktapur celebrates Gai Jatra on the largest scale. Families build tall bamboo frames, called taahamacha, dressed in cloth and decorated with a photograph of the deceased, and carry them round the town. Men dance the ghinta ghisi, a stick dance, through the streets for days after. It is one of the best times to see Bhaktapur's festival life.
Tips
- Bhaktapur's Gai Jatra is longer and more theatrical than Kathmandu's; stay in the old town if you can.
- Remember that families are mourning; be respectful with cameras and do not get in the way of processions.
- Monsoon rain is likely, so carry a light rain jacket and shoes with grip.
Questions
When is Gai Jatra?
Gai Jatra falls on the day after Janai Purnima, the full moon of the month of Shrawan or Bhadra, usually in August or early September. In Bhaktapur, related processions and stick dances continue for about a week. Dates change each year, so check current status before you travel.
Why do people dress as cows on Gai Jatra?
Hindu belief holds that cows help guide the souls of the dead. Families who lost someone in the past year send a cow, or a child dressed as one, in a procession through the town. It honours the dead and helps the living share their grief with the community.
Where is the best place to see Gai Jatra?
Bhaktapur, where the festival is celebrated on the largest scale, with tall decorated frames, costumed processions and the ghinta ghisi stick dance. Kathmandu's old city also has processions and satirical performances. Patan and Kirtipur hold their own versions.
Is Gai Jatra a sad festival?
It is both sad and joyful. Families remember relatives who died in the past year, but the day is also full of humour, costumes and satire, a tradition credited to King Pratap Malla. Visitors usually find the mix moving. Be respectful of families taking part.