Stories
Nepal, told slowly
Long reads on the things that make Nepal itself: why its year is 2083, how a trail becomes a road, what is cooked for which festival, and who keeps the temples standing.
Calendar and festivalsDashain and Tihar for travellers
Dashain and Tihar are Nepal's two biggest festivals, and both fall in the autumn trekking season. Dashain runs fifteen days, with the …
Trails and roadsLukla flights from Ramechhap in peak season
In the busy spring and autumn seasons, most flights to Lukla for the Everest region leave from Manthali airport in Ramechhap district, …
FoodMomo, the dumpling Kathmandu made its own
Momo are steamed dumplings that came to Kathmandu from Tibet, carried by Newar traders who lived in Lhasa and later by Tibetan …
Trails and roadsHow the road changed the Annapurna Circuit
Jeep roads now run up both sides of the Annapurna Circuit, to Manang in the east and to Muktinath and Jomsom in …
FoodDal bhat and the teahouse menu at altitude
Dal bhat, rice with lentil soup, a vegetable curry and pickle, is what most Nepalis eat twice a day and what keeps …
Calendar and festivalsWhy Nepal is in the year 2083
Nepal's official calendar is Bikram Sambat, a solar calendar that runs about 56 years and 8 months ahead of the one in …