Kathmandu Valley · Kathmandu
Indra Jatra
इन्द्र जात्रा
Kathmandu's great street festival, Yenya in Nepal Bhasa: eight days of masked dances, a tall pole raised at Hanuman Dhoka, the giant mask of Seto Bhairab pouring rice beer, and the chariot procession of the Kumari, the living goddess. The old city is taken over by its own people.
Indra Jatra opens when a tall wooden pole, the yosin or lingo, is raised in front of the old palace at Hanuman Dhoka, flying Indra's banner. For eight days, Kathmandu's Durbar Square and old neighbourhoods fill with masked dancers: the red-faced Lakhe leaping through the streets, Pulukisi, the elephant Indra rode, and the dancing gods of the Devi pyakhan. Images of Indra, arms outstretched as if bound, are set up on platforms across the city.
On the third day, the Kumari leaves her house in a three-tiered chariot, followed by two smaller chariots carrying boys who embody Ganesh and Bhairav. Thousands of people pull and follow them through the old city over three days of processions. At Hanuman Dhoka, the great gilded mask of Seto Bhairab is uncovered, and rice beer flows from its mouth through a pipe; catching a sip is said to bring luck.
The festival also remembers the dead. On Upaku wanegu, families who lost someone in the past year walk the old city's boundaries with incense and lamps. It was during Indra Jatra in 1768 that Prithvi Narayan Shah entered Kathmandu and took the throne. Today, the head of state attends the Kumari Jatra and receives a tika from the living goddess, continuing a royal tradition.
Tips
- For the Kumari chariot procession, find a step on a temple plinth in Basantapur at least an hour before it starts.
- Keep valuables minimal and agree a meeting point; the crowds in the Durbar Square are dense.
- Do not photograph the Kumari with flash, and follow police instructions about where you may stand.
Questions
When is Indra Jatra?
Indra Jatra falls in the lunar month of Yanla, usually in September, and lasts eight days. The exact dates change each year with the Nepali calendar. The Kumari Jatra, the chariot procession of the living goddess, starts on the third day. Check current status before you travel and book Kathmandu hotels early.
What happens at Indra Jatra?
The festival begins with the raising of a tall pole at Hanuman Dhoka. Over eight days, masked dancers perform in the streets, the giant Seto Bhairab mask pours rice beer, images of Indra are displayed, and the Kumari is pulled through the old city in her chariot. Families also remember those who died in the past year.
Can tourists see the Kumari at Indra Jatra?
Yes. During the Kumari Jatra, the living goddess rides in a chariot through the old city over three days, and crowds line the streets to see her. It is one of the few times she leaves her house. Arrive early for a good spot near Basantapur, and never photograph her with flash.
What is the legend of Indra Jatra?
Local legend says Indra, king of the gods, came to the valley to steal parijat flowers for his mother. He was caught and tied up as a common thief. His mother came looking for him, and when people learned who he was, they released him. In return, she promised mist and dew for the winter crops.