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Mustang & Dolpo · Muktinath

Yartung

यार्तुङ

Yartung, from the Tibetan for 'end of summer', is a three-day festival held around the full moon of August at Muktinath and in Lo Manthang. Villagers of Baragaun and Lo gather for horse races, archery, dancing and drinking, with riders in their best clothes racing across the meadows below the temple.

WhenAround the full moon of Janai Purnima, usually August or early September
Plan a trip around Yartung
Yartung
Photo: RiverMountainPhoto · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Yartung marks the end of summer in Mustang, before the harvest and the move to winter. The name is usually explained from Tibetan: yar, summer, and tung, end. It is held around the full moon of the Nepali month of Shrawan, the same full moon that Hindus celebrate as Janai Purnima, which usually falls in August. The best-known celebrations are at Muktinath and in Lo Manthang, though villages across Mustang mark it.

At Muktinath, families from Ranipauwa, Jharkot, Kagbeni and the other Baragaun villages gather on the meadows below the temple. The heart of the festival is horse racing: men and women ride decorated horses at full speed across the open ground, watched by crowds on the slopes. There are archery contests, dancing, songs and plenty of chhang and rakshi. Lamas also perform rituals for the community.

Because Janai Purnima falls at the same time, Hindu pilgrims are often at Muktinath too, bathing under the 108 spouts and tying the sacred thread, so Yartung shows Muktinath's two faiths side by side. August is in the monsoon, which brings little rain to Mustang but often disrupts flights to Jomsom and the road from Beni, so allow plenty of spare time.

Tips

  • Check the exact dates with local contacts before you plan; they follow the lunar calendar.
  • Watch the horse races from the slopes, well back from the course, as riders go at full speed.
  • Keep two spare days in your plan for monsoon disruption to Jomsom flights and the Beni road.

Questions

When is Yartung festival?

Yartung is held around the full moon of Janai Purnima, which usually falls in August, sometimes early September. It lasts about three days. Exact dates follow the lunar calendar and are confirmed locally each year, so check current dates before you travel. Celebrations at Muktinath and Lo Manthang may differ slightly in timing.

What happens at Yartung?

Yartung celebrates the end of summer with horse races, archery, dancing, singing and feasting. Riders in their best clothes race decorated horses across the meadows, and families gather from villages across the area. Lamas perform rituals for the community. At Muktinath, Hindu pilgrims are often present for Janai Purnima at the same time.

Do I need a special permit for Yartung at Muktinath?

No restricted area permit is needed for Muktinath; an ACAP permit and TIMS card are enough, and since April 2023 a licensed guide in conservation areas. If you want to see Yartung in Lo Manthang, you need an Upper Mustang restricted area permit. Check current status before you travel.

Is August a good time to visit Mustang?

Mustang lies in the rain shadow, so August is mostly dry there, with green fields and few visitors. The problem is getting in: monsoon cloud often delays Pokhara–Jomsom flights, and landslides can close the road between Beni and Ghasa. Allow spare days and travel with a flexible plan.

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