Climb Chhukung Ri at dawn

Chhukung Ri rises directly above the village, a grassy then rocky ridge leading to a rounded top and a slightly higher rocky summit. The trail climbs steeply over loose ground, gaining about 800 m to the summit, and most people take 3–4 hours up. The final stretch involves easy scrambling over rocks; your guide will judge whether the true summit or the lower top is the right goal for you.

The view is the reason to go. Lhotse's south face, more than 3 km high, fills the northern sky, joined by the long ridge of Nuptse. East lie Makalu and Baruntse; south, Ama Dablam's north-east face; below, the Imja glacier, Island Peak and the grey-green Imja Tsho. Few viewpoints on the Everest trail put you this close to such a wall.

Start early, ideally before 5 am, with headlamp, water, snacks and every warm layer. Wind picks up by late morning and cloud often builds. Descend the way you came, carefully on the loose sections; trekking poles help. Climbing Chhukung Ri is superb acclimatisation for Kala Patthar and the high passes, but only if you are already well adjusted in Dingboche.