Rana Tharu village walk near the park

The Rana Tharu are one of the main Tharu groups of the far western Terai, living mostly in Kanchanpur and Kailali. Their oral tradition says their ancestors came from Rajputana in north-west India. In daily life and especially at festivals, women wear long embroidered skirts, blouses and head cloths decorated with mirror work, coins and bright thread. The embroidery is hand stitched, and women often sew together in the afternoons, sitting in the shade of their verandas. Larger pieces can take many weeks to complete.

A village walk passes clay-walled houses, rice granaries, buffalo sheds and fish ponds, and usually includes a visit to a family home and kitchen. Ask about Holi, which Rana Tharu celebrate over many days with songs and dances, and about the relationship with the park: grass cutting rights, crop raiding by deer and elephants, and jobs in tourism. You will hear the Rana Tharu dialect spoken at home, with Nepali used for visitors and markets.

Go with a guide from the village, and keep your group small. Afternoon is the best time, when people are back from the fields. A small contribution to the household or buying a piece of embroidery is welcome; giving money to children is not. Keep the visit relaxed rather than rushed; a cup of tea and a conversation are often the highlight. Dress modestly and remove your shoes before entering a home or kitchen.