Spiritual · Boudhanath
Dawn kora with the pilgrims of Boudha
Walk three slow circuits round the great stupa at first light with Tibetan families, monks and neighbours. We explain the prayer wheels, the eyes, the mantras and the shrines on the way, then sit for butter tea on a rooftop as the sun reaches the dome.
By 5.30 am in autumn, the kora is already moving. Elderly Tibetans walk with wooden prayer wheels in one hand and beads in the other, murmuring Om mani padme hum. Some prostrate their way round the circle, sliding forward on wooden hand pads. Monks walk briskly to morning puja. We join the flow and walk at its pace, always clockwise.
On the way we stop at the shrine of Ajima, a goddess honoured at the stupa's base, at the rows of prayer wheels set in the stupa wall, and at the gates of monasteries opening for the day. We explain the stupa's structure: the plinth, dome, harmika with eyes, thirteen steps to enlightenment, and the gilded spire.
After three circuits we climb to a rooftop cafe for po cha, salty Tibetan butter tea, or sweet milk tea, and watch the sun strike the dome and the crowd below grow. It is one of the calmest ways to start a day in Kathmandu, and a good first morning after a long flight.
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Questions
What is a kora at Boudhanath?
A kora is a clockwise walk round a sacred site, done as a form of prayer and merit. At Boudhanath, pilgrims circle the stupa repeatedly, turning prayer wheels and reciting mantras. Visitors are welcome to join; just walk clockwise, at an easy pace, and do not stop suddenly in the flow.
What time should I go to Boudhanath?
Go early, from about 5.30 to 7.30 am, or in the evening after 5 pm. These are the busiest times on the kora with local pilgrims, and the light is soft. Midday is quieter and good for climbing onto the stupa's terraces and visiting monasteries.
How much is the Boudhanath entry fee?
Foreign visitors pay a small entry fee, a few hundred rupees, at the gates on the main road; SAARC nationals pay less. The ticket lets you walk the kora and climb the terraces. Fees change, so check current status before you travel and carry rupees in cash.
Also in Boudhanath
More ways to spend the day
SpiritualSit in on a Tibetan monastery puja
Visit two of Boudha's monasteries during prayers: deep chanting, long horns, drums and butter lamps. We explain the main images, …
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