Spiritual · Pashupatinath
Maha Shivaratri at Pashupatinath
On the great night of Shiva, Pashupati fills with sadhus from Nepal and India, fires burn on the riverbank, and lines of devotees wait hours to worship. We go with a local guide early in the day, keep to the edges and leave before the peak crush.
Maha Shivaratri falls on the fourteenth night of the dark half of the month of Falgun, usually in February or early March. In the days before, sadhus arrive from across Nepal and India, camping in the grounds and around Mrigasthali. Some are naked, ash-covered Naga sadhus; others wear saffron and long matted hair.
On the day itself, hundreds of thousands of devotees come to worship, with queues stretching far down the road. Fires burn all night, people sing and fast, and the government gives a public holiday. Many sadhus smoke cannabis openly as part of worship, a tradition tolerated for the day.
We visit in the morning, before the biggest crowds, with a guide who knows the grounds. We watch from the east bank and the edges of the sadhu camps, then leave by midday. For the evening atmosphere, we watch from a safe spot nearby rather than in the crush. It is intense, memorable and not for everyone.
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Questions
When is Shivaratri at Pashupatinath?
Maha Shivaratri falls in the Nepali month of Falgun, usually in February or early March, on the night before the new moon. The exact date follows the lunar calendar and changes each year, so check current status before you travel. Sadhus begin arriving several days before.
Is Shivaratri at Pashupatinath safe for tourists?
Generally yes, but crowds are enormous and pickpocketing increases. Go with a guide, arrive early, avoid the main queues, keep valuables minimal and agree a meeting point. Families with small children and people uncomfortable in dense crowds may prefer to watch from the edges.
Can I photograph sadhus at Shivaratri?
Many sadhus expect to be photographed and ask for a donation; agree first and pay what you agreed. Some do not want photos, so always ask. Do not photograph devotees at worship at close range without permission, and never photograph cremations.
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