Lo Gekar, the old gompa of Guru Rinpoche

From Ghami we walk to Dhakmar and climb above the red cliffs onto a high, open ridge, with wide views over the eroded landscape of Lo and the snow peaks to the south. The path is clear but the altitude, close to 4,000 m at the high point, makes it slow. We take rests often, and the guide sets a steady pace that everyone in the group can keep. The views are worth every stop.

Lo Gekar stands alone in a small valley. Its name is often linked to the tradition that Guru Rinpoche founded it, or that it stands where his struggle with the demons of Lo ended. Inside, the walls are lined with hundreds of small stones carved and painted with deities and prayers, giving the hall a feeling unlike any other gompa in Mustang. A caretaker lama keeps it and will show you round.

From Lo Gekar the trail continues north, crossing another ridge and descending to the walled city of Lo Manthang, which you see from above as you approach. It is a long day, about 7–8 hours of walking in total, but it gives you the landscape, the legend and the arrival in Lo Manthang in one. Carry lunch, plenty of water and warm layers. Luggage can go ahead by jeep or pony.