Nature · Tsarang
Sunset on the canyon edge behind the dzong
Walk to the edge of the eroded canyon behind Tsarang's dzong and gompa at the end of the day, when low sun turns the cliffs gold and red and lights the white walls of the dzong. A simple hour that many trekkers remember as the best of the trip.
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Behind the dzong and gompa at the eastern end of Tsarang, the land falls away into a deep canyon cut by wind and water into fluted cliffs and pinnacles of ochre, grey and red. It is a typical landscape of Lo, but here it is right on the village's edge, and the two great buildings stand above it like sentinels. Few places in Upper Mustang combine landscape and architecture so closely.
We walk out about an hour before sunset, after your gompa visit, and find a safe spot back from the edge. As the sun drops, the light moves across the cliffs and up the walls of the dzong, turning white to gold and then pink. Choughs wheel over the canyon, and sometimes you hear the gompa's evening horns. Then the light goes quickly and the cold arrives. It is a quiet, still moment.
Bring a down jacket, hat and gloves; temperatures fall fast after sunset, even in summer. Photographers will want a wide lens for the buildings and canyon together, and a telephoto for details of the cliffs. Keep well back from the edge, as the soft rock is undercut in places. Walk back through the village with a torch, in time for dinner in the lodge. Hot tea will be waiting. Stars follow soon after.
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Questions
Where is the best sunset spot in Tsarang?
The canyon edge behind the dzong and gompa, at the eastern end of the village, is the best place. From there you see the low sun on the cliffs and the white walls of the dzong. Your guide can show you safe viewpoints. Go about an hour before sunset and bring warm clothes.
Is the canyon edge at Tsarang safe?
It is safe if you stay well back from the edge. The rock is soft and crumbly, and parts are undercut, so never stand right at the rim or climb down. Keep children close and avoid going after dark. Your guide knows the safer viewpoints and will keep you away from unstable ground.
What camera lens should I bring for Upper Mustang?
A wide-angle lens (around 16–24 mm full-frame equivalent) captures the big landscapes and buildings, and a short telephoto (70–200 mm) is useful for details, monasteries on cliffs and wildlife. Bring spare batteries, as cold drains them fast, and a cloth for dust, which gets into everything in the afternoon wind.
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