Rivers and lakes · Begnas Lake
Dawn rowing on Begnas Lake
Take a wooden boat out from the Begnas dam before the day starts, row past fish cages and forested shores into the lake's quiet arms, and watch the Annapurnas appear above the hills as the mist lifts.
Leave Lakeside around 6 am and you will be at the boat stand by 6:45, before most visitors. The boatmen are local men who have rowed this lake for years. Take one, or row yourself if you are confident; the water is calm and sheltered. The lake extends east in arms between low hills, so every bend changes the view. Agree the time and price at the stand before you set off.
In the cold months a white mist lies on the water at first light. Cormorants dry their wings on the cage frames, kingfishers dive, and you hear roosters and temple bells from the shore. As the sun clears the hills, Machhapuchhre and the Annapurnas come out above the northern ridge, closer-looking than you expect. Keep a respectful distance from the fish cages and from fishermen working nets. The quiet is the point.
Row for an hour, then come back for tea at the dam. Ask the boatman about fishing on the lake and the changes he has seen; many have family on the cages. If you have time, combine the row with the ridge walk to Rupa Lake or a fish lunch at the bazaar. Tea stalls by the dam open early and serve milk tea, boiled eggs and sel roti, a simple breakfast after the row. Taxis wait near the bus park for the drive back to Lakeside.
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Questions
Is Begnas Lake better than Phewa Lake?
It is quieter rather than better. Phewa has Tal Barahi temple, Lakeside's cafes and more boats; Begnas has fewer people, farmland down to the water and a calmer feel. Many visitors do Phewa first and Begnas as a half-day trip. If you want peace and birds, choose Begnas at dawn; for temples and city life, Phewa.
Can you swim in Begnas Lake?
Locals do swim in places, but there are no lifeguards, the bottom is muddy and the water is deep in parts, and fish cages and weeds can entangle swimmers. We do not recommend swimming. If you insist, stay near the shore, never alone, and away from boats and cages. A boat with a life jacket is the safer way to enjoy the water.
How much does a boat cost on Begnas Lake?
Boats are hired by the hour at rates posted at the stand near the dam, with a boatman costing more than self-rowing. Rates are similar to or slightly lower than those on Phewa. An hour is enough for a short loop, two hours for the quieter arms. Check the posted board; fees are revised occasionally.
Also in Begnas Lake
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