The legend of Shiva's lake
The story begins at the churning of the cosmic ocean, the samudra manthan, one of the best-known episodes in Hindu mythology. Gods and demons, working together, churned the ocean to win the nectar of immortality. Before the nectar appeared, a deadly poison called halahala rose from the waters, threatening to destroy the world. Shiva drank it to save creation, and his throat turned blue, which is why he is called Nilkantha, the blue-throated one.
The burning would not stop. In the version told in Nepal, Shiva came north into the Himalaya looking for cold water, struck the mountainside with his trident and water gushed out, forming a lake. He lay down beside it to cool his throat. That lake is Gosaikunda, from Gosain, a name for Shiva and for holy ascetics, and kunda, pond. The river that flows from this region is the Trishuli, named for the trishul, his trident.
A lake that is also a pilgrimage
Many devotees believe the water of Gosaikunda travels underground to the pond at Kumbheshwar temple in Patan, in the Kathmandu valley, so that bathing there on Janai Purnima carries some of the merit of bathing in the mountain lake. Buddhists also honour the lake, and lamas from the surrounding hills come here to pray.
The lake sits in a basin at 4,380 m on the ridge between the Langtang and Trishuli valleys, one of a chain of high lakes that includes Saraswati Kunda and Bhairab Kunda below it and Surya Kunda near the Laurebina La. In 2007 Gosaikunda and its associated lakes were listed as a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. For most of the year it is a silent place of grey rock, dark water and prayer flags, frozen hard in winter.
| Lake or point | Where it is | Tradition or note |
|---|---|---|
| Saraswati Kunda | Below the trail before Gosaikunda | Named for the goddess of learning |
| Bhairab Kunda | Next to the trail before Gosaikunda | Named for Bhairab, a fierce form of Shiva |
| Gosaikunda (4,380 m) | Main lake in the basin | Shiva's lake; bathing on Janai Purnima |
| Surya Kunda | Near the Laurebina La | Named for the sun god |
| Laurebina La (4,610 m) | Pass above the lakes | Crossing point to Ghopte, Tharepati and Helambu |
Janai Purnima at the lake
Janai Purnima falls on the full moon of the Nepali month of Shrawan, usually in August and sometimes in late July. It is the day when Brahmin and Chhetri men renew the janai, the sacred thread worn across the chest, and when priests across Nepal tie a protective thread, the doro or raksha bandhan, on the wrists of anyone who asks. Everywhere it is a holy day; at Gosaikunda it becomes a mass pilgrimage.
In the days before the full moon, thousands of people walk up from Dhunche. Families, sadhus, students and old people climb together, many in sandals, some barefoot, carrying rice, flowers and incense for offerings. Among them come the jhankris, shamans of the Tamang and other hill communities, in white robes with feathered headdresses and long bead necklaces, beating their drums as they walk. On the festival night the lake shore is lit by fires and lamps, and the jhankris drum and dance until dawn. At first light on the full moon, pilgrims step into the freezing water to bathe.
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The same full moon in the valley
In the Kathmandu valley, the Newar community celebrates this full moon as Gunhu Punhi. Families eat kwati, a thick soup of nine kinds of sprouted beans, said to restore strength at the end of the rice-planting season and to protect against the damp chills of the monsoon. Kumbheshwar temple in Patan holds a fair, with crowds bathing and worshipping around its pond, the pond believed to be fed from Gosaikunda.
Some Newar households in the valley also feed frogs on this day, in a custom that thanks them for their part in the rains that water the rice fields. If you are in Kathmandu around Janai Purnima, a visit to Kumbheshwar in the morning and a bowl of kwati in a Newar restaurant are a good way to share the festival without the climb.
Walking the pilgrim route
The usual pilgrim route starts at Dhunche, the headquarters of Rasuwa district, about 115 km and six to seven hours by road from Kathmandu. The trail climbs through forest via Deurali to Sing Gompa, also called Chandanbari, at about 3,330 m, then onto the open ridge at Laurebina at about 3,910 m, and finally along a traverse past the smaller lakes to Gosaikunda. Many pilgrims do the climb in two days, which is too fast for most bodies.
Altitude is the real danger. Going from 1,960 m to 4,380 m in two or three days, often after a long bus ride, leaves many people with headaches, vomiting or worse, and every year some pilgrims fall seriously ill. We recommend at least three nights on the way up, with a night at Laurebina, and an immediate descent for anyone who becomes confused, breathless at rest or unable to walk straight. The lake lies in Langtang National Park, where foreign trekkers need a licensed guide; check current status before you travel.
Forest, flowers and birds on the way
The pilgrimage is also one of the finest nature walks near Kathmandu. Above Dhunche the trail climbs through a forest that changes every few hundred metres: chir pine and oak at first, then rhododendron, hemlock and silver fir hung with moss and beard lichen. In March and April the rhododendrons turn whole hillsides red and pink. The forests between Dhunche and Sing Gompa are habitat for the red panda, one of the reasons Langtang National Park matters, though sightings are rare and early mornings give the best chance.
Listen for the Himalayan monal, the danphe, Nepal's national bird, whose males flash green, blue and copper when they take off from the slopes. Above the tree line the land turns to dwarf rhododendron, juniper and grass, and in the monsoon the meadows around Laurebina and the lakes fill with small alpine flowers. Lammergeiers ride the air above the ridge. Even in festival week, step a few metres off the trail and the mountains go quiet again.
Visiting outside the festival
Most trekkers come in October, November, March or April, when the skies are clearer and the lodges quiet. The lake is calm and blue-black, the small Shiva shrine on its shore is hung with bells and prayer flags, and you may have the shore almost to yourself. From December to February the lakes freeze and snow can close the trail above Sing Gompa. Combining Gosaikunda with the Langtang Valley, or crossing the Laurebina La to Helambu, makes a richer trek than an out-and-back from Dhunche.
- Walk clockwise around the shrine and do not wash, swim or throw anything into the lake.
- Remove shoes near the Shiva shrine and ask before photographing pilgrims or shamans.
- Carry a warm down jacket, gloves and a hat in every season; nights at the lake are below freezing much of the year.
- In festival week, expect full lodges, little sleep and a long queue for everything, and plan a tent as a backup.
- Carry out all rubbish, including offerings packaging, which is a growing problem around the lake.
Questions
Why is Gosaikunda lake sacred?
Hindu tradition says that after Shiva swallowed the poison halahala to save the world during the churning of the cosmic ocean, he came to the Himalaya to cool his burning throat. He struck the mountain with his trident and water burst out, forming Gosaikunda. Buddhists also regard the lake as sacred, and shamans come here to renew their power.
How high is Gosaikunda?
Gosaikunda lies at about 4,380 m in Langtang National Park, in Rasuwa district north of Kathmandu. The Laurebina La pass above it, on the route to Helambu, is about 4,610 m. Because the lake is reached quickly from Dhunche at 1,960 m, altitude sickness is a real risk, and we recommend at least three nights on the way up.
When is the Gosaikunda festival?
The main festival is Janai Purnima, on the full moon of the Nepali month of Shrawan, which usually falls in August and sometimes in late July. Pilgrims arrive over the days before, and the biggest crowds are at the lake on the festival night and the full moon morning. The date changes every year with the lunar calendar.
Is Gosaikunda connected to Kumbheshwar in Patan?
Many devotees believe so. Tradition holds that water from Gosaikunda flows underground to the pond at Kumbheshwar temple in Patan, so bathing there on Janai Purnima earns merit similar to bathing in the mountain lake. A large fair is held at Kumbheshwar on the festival day, attended by people who cannot make the climb.
What is Gunhu Punhi?
Gunhu Punhi is the Newar name for the full moon of Shrawan, the same day as Janai Purnima. In the Kathmandu valley, families eat kwati, a soup of nine sprouted beans, and visit Kumbheshwar temple in Patan. Some households also feed frogs to thank them for their role in the rains. It is a good festival to see if you stay in Kathmandu.
How long does it take to walk to Gosaikunda?
From Dhunche, most trekkers take three days up and two days down, with nights at Sing Gompa and Laurebina, making a five to six night trip from Kathmandu. Pilgrims often go faster, but that increases the risk of altitude sickness. Combined with the Langtang Valley or Helambu, the trek takes nine to twelve nights.
Can I swim in Gosaikunda?
No. The lake is sacred and swimming is not appropriate, and the water is close to freezing for most of the year, which makes it dangerous at 4,380 m. During Janai Purnima, Hindu pilgrims bathe at the shore as a ritual act. Visitors can watch respectfully, walk around the lake and visit the shrine.
Are there lodges at Gosaikunda?
Yes, there are a few simple lodges at the lake and more at Laurebina and Sing Gompa. They offer twin rooms, a dining room with a stove and basic meals. During Janai Purnima they are packed and many pilgrims sleep in shelters or tents. Some lodges close in deep winter, so check with your guide before you go.
What are jhankris doing at Gosaikunda?
Jhankris are traditional shamans from several hill communities, including the Tamang. At Janai Purnima many come to Gosaikunda, dressed in white with feathered headdresses, to drum, dance and sometimes enter trance by the lake. For them it is a place to renew their spiritual power. Watch quietly and ask before taking photographs.
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