Where the restricted area begins
Mustang district is split in two for visitors. Lower Mustang, from Ghasa up to Jomsom, Kagbeni and Muktinath, lies inside the Annapurna Conservation Area and is open to anyone with the conservation area permit. Upper Mustang, the old Kingdom of Lo, begins just north of Kagbeni, where a police check post and a conservation area office stand at the edge of the village. From there northward, through Tangbe, Chhusang, Chele, Ghami, Tsarang and Lo Manthang to the Chinese border at Korala, you are in a restricted area.
Upper Mustang was closed to foreigners until 1992. When it opened, the government set a high fee and a minimum group size to keep numbers low and protect a fragile culture and landscape. The fee has been debated many times since, by trekking agencies who say it keeps visitors away and by Mustang residents who ask how much of the money returns to the area. As we write, the structure below still applies. Fees and rules are reviewed from time to time, so check current status before you travel.
What it costs, permit by permit
These are the permits you are most likely to need in Mustang and Dolpo, with fees for foreign nationals as we understand them. Conservation area and national park fees are charged in Nepali rupees; restricted-area fees in US dollars. SAARC nationals, including Indians, pay a lower rate for conservation areas and national parks but, as we understand it, the same restricted-area fees as other foreigners.
| Permit | Area | Fee for foreigners | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Mustang restricted-area permit | North of Kagbeni to Lo Manthang and Korala | USD 500 for first 10 days, then USD 50 per day | Minimum 2 foreigners, licensed guide, registered agency |
| Annapurna Conservation Area permit | All of Mustang district south of the border | NPR 3,000 (SAARC NPR 1,000) | Needed for both Lower and Upper Mustang |
| TIMS card | Lower Mustang and Annapurna routes | NPR 2,000 | Issued through agencies since 2023; usually not checked in restricted areas |
| Upper Dolpo restricted-area permit | Shey, Saldang and the north of Dolpa | USD 500 for first 10 days, then USD 50 per day | Same group and guide rules |
| Lower Dolpo restricted-area permit | Dho Tarap and southern Dolpa | About USD 20 per week | Same group and guide rules |
| Shey Phoksundo National Park entry | Phoksundo Lake and most of Dolpo | NPR 3,000 (SAARC NPR 1,500) | Paid at the park office or through your agency |
Who can get the permit
You cannot apply for the Upper Mustang permit yourself at a government counter. The Department of Immigration issues it only through a trekking agency registered in Nepal, and only for a group of at least two foreign trekkers who will travel together with a licensed guide employed by that agency. A solo traveller can still go, but the agency must put at least one other foreigner on the same permit, travelling on the same dates. Some agencies pair solo travellers; ask before you book.
The licensed-guide rule is older than the 2023 rule that now requires guides for foreign trekkers in all national parks and conservation areas. In Upper Mustang, it has applied since the area opened, and it is checked at Kagbeni and again in Lo Manthang. Your guide carries the original permit; keep a photocopy of your passport and permit with you as well.
- Passport valid for at least six months, with a Nepal visa valid for the whole trip
- Two or more passport-size photos, or digital photos for the online system
- A fixed itinerary with dates of entry and exit from the restricted area
- Proof of travel insurance, which most agencies require
- The Annapurna Conservation Area permit, issued separately
A planner can turn what you are reading into days, nights and a price.
How the 10 days are counted
The fee covers the days you spend inside the restricted area, counted from the day you pass the Kagbeni check post to the day you come back out. Nights in Kagbeni, Jomsom, Muktinath or Marpha do not count, because those places are outside the restricted area. The first 10 days cost USD 500 whether you use them all or not. If you stay longer, every extra day adds USD 50.
This is why most Upper Mustang treks are designed to spend nine or ten days north of Kagbeni. A jeep trip to Lo Manthang might use only five or six days of the permit, but still pays USD 500. A trek that adds the Chhoser caves, Ghar Gompa and a rest day in Lo Manthang can use the full ten. If you plan to attend Tiji in Lo Manthang as well, count carefully: an extra three days adds USD 150 per person.
Timing and the paperwork
Permits are issued in Kathmandu on government working days, normally Sunday to Friday, and offices close for public holidays, which can run for several days around Dashain and Tihar. An agency can usually process the permit in one or two working days once it has your passport details, but in October and around Tiji in May it is wise to send documents at least two weeks ahead. Some agencies can also process permits at the immigration office in Pokhara.
Your guide shows the permit at the Kagbeni check post on the way in and again on the way out. Officials sometimes ask to see it in Lo Manthang. If you change your dates after the permit is issued, the agency must amend it, which may not be possible at short notice, so fix the itinerary before you pay.
What else to budget beyond the permit
The permit is the most visible cost of Upper Mustang, but it is rarely the largest. Because you must travel with a licensed guide and at least one other person, and because lodges and transport in Lo are expensive to supply, a realistic Upper Mustang trek of 14 nights from Kathmandu usually costs between USD 3,700 and 4,700 per person including the permit, depending on group size, comfort and how much of the route you drive. These are the other items that make up the total.
Prices for food climb steadily as you go north, because almost everything arrives by jeep or mule from Jomsom. A plate of dal bhat that costs a few hundred rupees in Pokhara can cost three times as much in Lo Manthang. That is fair, and it is worth remembering when you compare quotes.
- Licensed guide's wages, food, lodging and insurance for every day of the trip
- Porter or pack-horse for luggage, usually one porter between two trekkers
- Flights Pokhara–Jomsom and return, plus Kathmandu–Pokhara if you fly
- Lodges and three meals a day in Upper Mustang
- Jeep hire for a day trip to Chhoser or for the return, if used
- Hot showers, charging and drinks, usually paid locally
Is it worth the money
USD 500 is a lot for a permit, and travellers ask us whether it is worth it. Our honest answer: if you want to see Lo Manthang, its 15th-century monasteries, the caves of Chhoser and a way of life that is closer to Tibet than to the rest of Nepal, there is no cheaper way. The fee also keeps numbers modest. Even in October, Upper Mustang sees far fewer visitors than the Annapurna Circuit or the Everest region, and you can walk for hours without meeting another group.
If the cost is too much, Lower Mustang offers a taste: Kagbeni sits right on the edge of the restricted area, and Muktinath, Jharkot, Lubra and Marpha share much of the culture and landscape for the price of the conservation area permit. Some travellers do Lower Mustang one year and come back for Lo the next.
Common mistakes to avoid
Most problems with the Upper Mustang permit come from planning, not from officials. The rules are clear once you know them, and a good agency handles the paperwork for you. These are the mistakes we see most often.
- Booking flights to Jomsom before the permit dates are fixed, then finding the permit cannot be moved
- Assuming a jeep tour needs no permit; the restricted-area rules apply however you travel
- Forgetting the Annapurna Conservation Area permit, which is separate and needed too
- Planning more than 10 days north of Kagbeni without budgeting the USD 50 daily fee
- Travelling alone without asking the agency to arrange a second person on the permit
- Sending passport copies late in peak season, when processing slows
Questions
How much is the Upper Mustang permit?
As we understand the current rules, the Upper Mustang restricted-area permit costs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days and USD 50 per person for each additional day. You also need the Annapurna Conservation Area permit, NPR 3,000 for foreigners. Both are arranged through a registered trekking agency. Fees are reviewed from time to time, so check current status before you travel.
Can I get the Upper Mustang permit myself?
No. The Department of Immigration issues the restricted-area permit only through registered trekking agencies in Nepal. You send your passport details and photos to the agency, which applies on your behalf and attaches a licensed guide. You cannot buy it as an individual at the permit counter, unlike the conservation area permit.
Can a solo traveller go to Upper Mustang?
Yes, but not alone on paper. The permit is issued for groups of at least two foreigners, so the agency needs a second person travelling on the same dates. Some agencies match solo travellers, or you can pay for a group arrangement. You must always travel with a licensed guide. Check current status before you travel, as rules are revised.
Do Indian citizens need the Upper Mustang permit?
Yes. As we understand it, Indian citizens need the same restricted-area permit as other foreigners to enter Upper Mustang, though they pay the lower SAARC rate for the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. Indians do not need a visa for Nepal. The permit is arranged through a registered agency with a licensed guide. Check current status before you travel.
Where is the Upper Mustang permit checked?
The main check post is at the north end of Kagbeni, where the police and the conservation area office check permits on the way in and out. Officials may also ask to see it in Lo Manthang. Your guide carries the original; keep a copy of your passport and permit in your daypack in case you are asked.
Does the permit cost less for a short jeep trip?
No. The minimum charge is USD 500 for the first 10 days, even if you spend only four or five days inside the restricted area. A short jeep trip pays the same as a nine-day trek. That is why we suggest using at least seven or eight days north of Kagbeni, to make the fee worth it.
Do I need a permit for Muktinath and Kagbeni?
You need the Annapurna Conservation Area permit, NPR 3,000 for foreigners and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals, and a TIMS card may be checked. You do not need the Upper Mustang restricted-area permit for Jomsom, Kagbeni, Muktinath, Marpha or Lubra, which are all outside the restricted area. Check current status before you travel.
How long does it take to get the Upper Mustang permit?
Usually one or two working days in Kathmandu once the agency has your passport copy, visa details and photos. Government offices close on Saturdays and public holidays, and processing slows in October and in May around Tiji. Send documents at least two weeks before you travel to be safe.
Is the Upper Mustang permit fee going to change?
It might. The fee has been discussed for years, with trekking businesses and some local voices arguing for change and others defending it as protection for the area. Any change would be announced by the Department of Immigration. Always check current status before you travel and confirm the fee with your agency at the time of booking.
