Maghe Sankranti mela at Devghat

Maghe Sankranti marks the sun's move into Capricorn and the end of the coldest, least auspicious month. Across Nepal people bathe in rivers and eat warming foods, but the confluence at Devghat is one of the most important places to do it. Pilgrims arrive overnight and wait on the banks for first light. Many pilgrims sleep near the riverbank, wrapped in blankets beside small fires.

At dawn the crowds go down to the water in waves. Families bathe together, priests chant, and offerings of flowers, rice and coins float away. Sadhus sit by fires along the bank. Stalls sell chaku, til laddu, sweet potatoes, tarul, religious pictures and toys, and loudspeakers announce lost children. Families eat chaku, til laddu and sweet potato on the bank after bathing.

It is crowded, noisy and moving. Go with a guide, keep valuables secure, and agree on a meeting point. Roads near Narayangadh become very slow, so leave Sauraha early and expect a long return. Wear warm clothes and comfortable shoes, carry water and snacks, and keep phones and cash in an inside pocket. Ask before taking close portraits of bathers or sadhus.