Sakela circle dance with Kirat Rai families

Sakela is the main festival of the Kirat Rai, held twice a year: Ubhauli at the Baisakh full moon in spring, marking the move upward and the start of planting, and Udhauli at the Mangsir full moon in late autumn, after the harvest. Dhankuta is one of the main places it is celebrated. Gatherings are held at community grounds and sacred sites around the district, and families travel back from towns to join.

At a Sakela gathering, families in traditional dress dance in a large circle around a shrine or ritual site, following the beat of the dhol drum and cymbals. Each step, called a sili, imitates the movements of birds, animals or farm work such as sowing and reaping. A Rai priest performs rituals before the dancing, with offerings to nature and ancestors. The circle grows through the afternoon as more people join.

Visitors are usually welcome to watch, and sometimes to join the outer circle when invited. Our guide explains the meaning of the steps and the rituals, and makes sure we behave as guests: dressing modestly, keeping out of the centre, and asking before taking photographs. Food stalls and family picnics surround the dance, and you may be offered snacks or millet beer. It is a joyful, community day.