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Eastern Nepal · hill town

Dhankuta

धनकुटा

Dhankuta is the headquarters of Dhankuta district, a hill town on a ridge at about 1,190 m above Dharan, on the Koshi Highway. It was long the administrative centre of eastern Nepal. Come for the old bazaar, winter oranges, tea gardens toward Hile and the culture of the Athpahariya Rai and other Kirat communities.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Jan
  • पहाडPahad
Dhankuta
Photo: Avastabik · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Dhankuta

Altitude1,192 m13.5% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath87%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils96.0 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+1.4 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,192 m; real days vary with weather.

The road from Dharan climbs in long loops through Bhedetar and over the ridge, then drops to the Tamor river at Mulghat before rising again to Dhankuta. The town stretches along its own ridge, a calm place of schools, offices, bazaar lanes and houses with orange trees in the garden. It is cooler than the plains and far quieter than Dharan, and in the early morning the valleys below are often filled with mist.

For decades Dhankuta was the seat of government for the whole eastern hills, and it still has the feel of an orderly district town, with its offices, colleges and neat lanes. Its bazaar lanes are lined with old shop-houses, and the hills around are farmed for maize, millet, oranges and, increasingly, tea. Many families here have a member who served in the Gurkha regiments, and their stories are part of the town's history.

Dhankuta suits travellers who like ordinary hill life more than sights. Spend a night, walk the bazaar in the morning, visit a tea estate or orchard, and continue to Hile and the road north toward Tumlingtar. In winter, come for the oranges; in spring and late autumn, try to coincide with Sakela, when Rai families gather to dance. Either way, the pace is slow, the people friendly and the views wide.

Why go

The bazaar on the ridge

Walk Dhankuta's old bazaar in the morning, with shop-houses, tea stalls, tailors and offices along the ridge. It is calm and easy to explore, and gives a feel for an orderly hill district town.

Orange season

From about November to January the orchards around Dhankuta are heavy with tangerines, and stalls in the bazaar pile them high. A short walk out of town takes you into the orchards.

Tea estates toward Hile

The ridges between Dhankuta and Hile hold tea gardens such as Guranse and Jun Chiyabari, which make specialty orthodox tea at high elevation. Visits need arranging in advance, ideally in spring or autumn during plucking.

Sakela in Dhankuta

Dhankuta is one of the main places for the Sakela dance of the Kirat Rai at Ubhauli in spring and Udhauli in late autumn, with drums, cymbals and large circles of dancers.

A stop on the Koshi Highway

Dhankuta sits on the road from Dharan to Hile, Basantapur and Khandbari. A night here breaks the long drive north toward Tumlingtar and the Makalu region, and adds a calm day of hill-town life.

१The story of Dhankuta

The old capital of the eastern hills

Dhankuta grew as a hill bazaar on the trade routes between the plains and the Koshi hills, where porters rested and traders bought and sold hill produce. It became the headquarters of the district and, under the development regions created in the 1970s, the administrative centre of the whole Eastern Development Region, a role it held until the regions were replaced by provinces after the 2015 constitution. Offices, schools and colleges gave the town a settled, educated character that it still keeps.

For most of the 20th century the hills around Dhankuta lived on farming, the sale of produce such as tangerines and potatoes, and money sent home by Gurkha soldiers serving in the British and Indian armies. Dhankuta's first five American Peace Corps volunteers arrived in the autumn of 1962 to teach in the town's two high schools, an early sign of its place as an educational centre. Many people in the district still remember the teachers and projects of that era.

The road from Dharan opened in the early 1980s and brought trucks, buses and new trade, though it also moved much of the commerce down to Dharan. Later, when the development regions were abolished and Biratnagar became the provincial capital, Dhankuta lost more of its official role. Today it is a quiet district town with colleges and offices, and a growing tea industry on the ridges toward Hile, where specialty gardens now sell tea far beyond Nepal.

३The people

Who lives here

Dhankuta is home to many communities. The Athpahariya Rai, a Kirat group native to the hills around the town, speak their own Athpare language; the 2011 census found it spoken by about one in seven people in the municipality. Tamang, Magar, Newar, Limbu, Brahmin, Chhetri and other families live here too. Many are farmers, teachers, government workers and traders, and many families have members abroad.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
सुन्तला
suntala

Orange or tangerine, Dhankuta's winter fruit

Nepali
बजार
bazaar

Market town or main shopping street

Nepali
लाहुरे
lahure

Soldier serving abroad, especially in the Gurkha regiments

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Dhankuta suntala

Small, sweet hill tangerines, picked from about November to January from orchards around the town. In season they are piled on stalls in the bazaar and along the highway. Buy a bag in the morning and eat them in the sun on the ridge.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

A first group of five American Peace Corps volunteers arrived in Dhankuta bazaar in autumn 1962 to teach in the town's two high schools.

Wikipedia: Dhankuta

In the 2011 census, about 14.6 percent of Dhankuta municipality's residents spoke Athpare, the language of the Athpahariya Rai, making it the most spoken language after Nepali.

Wikipedia: Dhankuta

Before the road age, Dhankuta's hill economy relied on selling tangerines and potatoes and on money sent home by Gorkha soldiers serving in the British and Indian armies.

Wikipedia: Dhankuta

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Dhankuta

Road

Dhankuta is roughly 50 km from Dharan on the Koshi Highway, about 1.5–2 hours by car through Bhedetar. From Biratnagar it is about 3 hours. Buses and jeeps run often from Dharan and Itahari. Monsoon landslides can cause delays; check current status before you travel.

Air

The nearest airport is Biratnagar, with frequent flights of about 40 minutes from Kathmandu. From the airport, drive via Itahari and Dharan up to Dhankuta.

Where to stay

Dhankuta has a handful of simple hotels and guesthouses in and near the bazaar, used by officials, students' families and travellers; rooms are clean and basic. Homestays operate in some villages around the town. Hile, 13 km further up the road, has more lodges and cooler nights, and Dharan has the widest choice of hotels. We pick based on your route north or south.

Local tips

  • Come in November–January for oranges, or March–April for rhododendrons on the higher ridges toward Hile.
  • Tea estate visits around Dhankuta and Hile need advance booking; they are working gardens, not drop-in sights.
  • Avoid driving the Dharan–Dhankuta road at night; it is steep, winding and busy with trucks.
  • Saturdays and holidays are quiet in town, with many offices and some shops closed.
  • If you are here for Sakela, ask locally where the main gatherings are held that year; they move between sites.

On the map

Dhankuta and what is near it

Map of Dhankuta, Hile, Bhedetar, TumlingtarIndiaChinaBangladeshNepalKoshiDhankuta1DhankutaHile2HileBhedetar3BhedetarTumlingtar4Tumlingtar50 kmN
  1. 1Dhankuta
  2. 2Hile
  3. 3Bhedetar
  4. 4Tumlingtar
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Dhankuta: what travellers ask

Where is Dhankuta?

Dhankuta is a hill town and district headquarters in Koshi Province, eastern Nepal, at about 1,190 m on the Koshi Highway north of Dharan. Hile lies about 13 km further north along the road, and Biratnagar airport is about 3 hours away.

How do I get to Dhankuta from Kathmandu?

Fly to Biratnagar (about 40 minutes), then drive about 3 hours via Itahari and Dharan. By road from Kathmandu it is a long day or two. Buses run from Kathmandu to Dharan and on to Dhankuta. Check current status of roads before you travel.

What is Dhankuta known for?

Dhankuta is known for its winter oranges, its calm ridge-top bazaar, tea gardens toward Hile, Kirat culture including the Athpahariya Rai and the Sakela festival, and its past as the administrative centre of eastern Nepal.

When is the best time to visit Dhankuta?

October to April is dry and pleasant, with oranges from November to January and rhododendrons on higher ridges in March and April. June to September is monsoon, with rain, mist and road delays on the Koshi Highway.

How far is Dhankuta from Dharan?

About 50 km, roughly 1.5–2 hours by car up the Koshi Highway through Bhedetar and down across the Tamor river at Mulghat. Buses and shared jeeps run often between the two towns during the day.

Where should I stay in Dhankuta?

Dhankuta has simple hotels and guesthouses in and near the bazaar. For more lodges and cooler air, stay in Hile, 13 km north; for the widest choice, stay in Dharan and visit on a day trip.

Who are the Athpahariya Rai?

The Athpahariya are a Kirat Rai group native to the hills around Dhankuta, with their own Athpare language. In the 2011 census, about one in seven people in Dhankuta municipality spoke it. Like other Rai, they celebrate Sakela.

Can I see Sakela in Dhankuta?

Yes, if you visit around the Baisakh full moon (Ubhauli, usually late April or May) or the Mangsir full moon (Udhauli, usually late November or December). Gatherings are held in several places around the district; we find out the year's sites in advance.

How many days do I need in Dhankuta?

One night is enough for the bazaar and a walk in the orchards or a tea garden. Two nights, or one in Dhankuta and one in Hile, give a relaxed stop on the way north to Tumlingtar or south to Dharan.

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