Mai Pokhari wetland day trip

Mai Pokhari lies north of Ilam bazaar, roughly 1.5–2 hours by jeep on a road that climbs through tea, cardamom and then mixed forest of oak, rhododendron and bamboo. The lake itself is small, with a temple on its shore and prayer flags strung through the trees. It was listed as a Ramsar wetland in 2008, protected for its bog plants, birds and amphibians, and it sits at about 2,100 m, so the air is noticeably cooler than in town.

Pilgrims come throughout the year, and in larger numbers on full-moon and festival days. Hindus treat the lake as a form of the goddess, and Buddhist visitors walk around it clockwise, spinning prayer wheels and leaving offerings. Our guide tells you the local beliefs about the lake, shows you where offerings are left, and explains the simple rules visitors follow: no swimming, no fishing, no rubbish in the water, and quiet near the shrine.

The walk around the shore takes about 45 minutes on a forest path, with benches and viewpoints along the way. Birdwatchers should bring binoculars; the forest is good for small hill birds in the early hours. In spring the rhododendrons are out on the slopes above. We pack a lunch or eat at a simple bhojanalaya by the car park, then drive back to Ilam in the afternoon, stopping at a tea garden on the way.