Rhododendron and red panda forest on the ridge

Below the crest, the Singalila ridge is covered in mixed forest: rhododendron, oak, magnolia, silver fir and thick bamboo, hung with moss and lichen. It is one of the places in Nepal where the red panda lives, feeding on bamboo shoots and leaves and resting in tall trees. The forest is also home to barking deer, Himalayan black bears and many birds, though most animals keep well away from the trail.

We walk slowly in the early morning, when birds are active and the light is soft. Red panda sightings are rare and need luck; even so, you learn to read the habitat, from dense bamboo near water to the tall trees where the animals rest, and you may see laughingthrushes, sunbirds, pheasants and other ridge birds. In April the gurans flower red, pink and white along the path.

This walk fits easily into the day after sunrise, before the drive or walk down. We keep groups small and quiet, never use bait, and do not follow animals off the trail if we do see one. Our guide carries binoculars and a field guide, and helps with names of birds and plants. Bring a camera with a long lens and patience; the forest rewards those who stop and listen.