Walk down to the Arun river

We walk from town across the fields to the edge of the tar, where the land drops toward the Arun. From the edge there is a wide view of the river and the forested ridges beyond. A path leads down past farms and bamboo groves to the river, which in winter runs clear grey-green between gravel bars and sandbanks, and in the monsoon swells into a fast brown flood that fills the valley floor.

Our guide explains the river's journey: it rises in Tibet, where it is known as the Phung Chu, crosses the main Himalayan range in a deep gorge, and joins the Tamor and Sun Koshi to form the Sapta Koshi, which flows on to the Ganges. We also talk about the hydroelectric projects on the Arun and what they mean for local people, from jobs and roads to changes in the river and the land.

We spend time on the banks, watching the water and the people who use it, before starting back. The walk back up is the hard part, a steady climb of about an hour in the sun. In winter it is pleasant; from April to September, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat. Carry water and a hat, and stop at a farmhouse tea shop on the way up if one is open.