Heritage · Tumlingtar
Khandbari bazaar and the ridge road
A drive up from Tumlingtar to Khandbari, the hill-top headquarters of Sankhuwasabha district, to walk its bazaar, see how a district town works, stock up for the Makalu trek and look back over the Arun valley.
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Khandbari sits on a ridge about an hour's drive above Tumlingtar. It is the district headquarters, with government offices, schools, banks and a long bazaar that serves villages across Sankhuwasabha, from the Arun valley to the Tibetan border. It is noticeably cooler than Tumlingtar, and busier, with jeeps loading for the northern villages and traders unloading goods from the south.
We walk the bazaar with our guide, stop for tea and snacks, and visit the shops where trekkers and villagers buy supplies for the hills: rice, oil, tools, blankets, phone cards and medicines. On clear days the ridge gives wide views over the Arun valley and the Tumlingtar terrace below. Our guide points out the roads leading north and explains where each one goes.
If you are trekking to Makalu, this is a good place to pick up last items and cash before the road heads north toward Num. If you are not, it is simply an interesting half day in a working district town, with a different feel from the warm valley below. We return to Tumlingtar in the afternoon or continue to Chainpur, which lies close by.
Good for
Questions
How far is Khandbari from Tumlingtar?
Khandbari is roughly an hour by road uphill from Tumlingtar, depending on traffic and road works. Jeeps and local buses run regularly between the two through the day, and private cars can be arranged in either town.
Can I stay in Khandbari instead of Tumlingtar?
Yes. Khandbari has more hotels than Tumlingtar and is cooler at night. It is a good first stop for Makalu trekkers, as jeeps for Num leave from here too, and you can shop for last supplies in the evening.
Are there ATMs in Khandbari?
Yes, Khandbari has banks and ATMs, but they can be offline or empty, especially before festivals. Bring enough cash from Kathmandu for the Makalu trek and use Khandbari only as a backup.
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