Nature · Everest Base Camp
Stars over Gorak Shep at 5,164 m
Step out of your Gorak Shep lodge on a clear, moonless night to one of the darkest, highest night skies a trekker can reach, with the Milky Way arching over Pumori and Nuptse. Wrap up well; temperatures fall far below freezing.
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At about 5,164 m, half the atmosphere is below you and there are no towns for days in any direction. On a clear night the sky above Gorak Shep is extraordinary: stars down to the horizon, the Milky Way running bright from Pumori across to Nuptse, and the snow peaks faintly lit by starlight. October, November and December, when the air is driest, are the best months.
You do not need to go far. Step a few metres from the lodge, switch off your headlamp and let your eyes adjust for 10–15 minutes. The dark outline of Everest's west shoulder and Nuptse cuts across the stars to the east; Pumori stands above you to the north. Photographers will want a tripod and spare batteries, as cold drains them quickly.
Be careful. Temperatures at night fall to minus 15 °C or below, the ground is uneven and the lakebed nearby is crossed by streams. Wear your down jacket, hat and gloves, take a headlamp, and stay close to the lodge. If you are struggling with the altitude, a few minutes at the door is enough; rest matters more than photographs.
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Questions
When is the best time to see stars at Everest Base Camp?
Clear, moonless nights from October to December give the best views, as the air is driest and skies most often clear. Plan around the new moon if possible. Spring nights are often hazier, and monsoon nights from June to September are usually cloudy.
How cold is Gorak Shep at night?
In October and November nights often fall to minus 10 to minus 15 °C, and colder in December to February. Rooms are unheated. Wear down clothing, hat and gloves, and use a sleeping bag rated to minus 20 °C. Keep batteries and phones warm inside your sleeping bag overnight.
Can I photograph the Milky Way at Gorak Shep?
Yes, with a camera that allows long exposures, a wide lens and a tripod. Exposures of 15–25 seconds at high ISO work well. Cold drains batteries fast, so carry spares in an inside pocket. Do not wander far from the lodge in the dark, and take care on icy ground.
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