Kala Patthar for the Everest view

Kala Patthar means black rock in Nepali, and from Gorak Shep it looks like a dark brown shoulder below the snow peak of Pumori. A steep path climbs its grassy, then rocky slopes, gaining about 480 m in 1.5–2.5 hours. At this altitude every step is slow; breathe in a steady rhythm and stop when you need to. The summit is a jumble of rocks hung with prayer flags.

From the top, Everest stands directly across the Khumbu glacier: the black summit pyramid, the South Col, the west shoulder, with Nuptse's ridge in front and the Khumbu Icefall pouring down between them. Changtse, on the Tibetan side, rises behind. Below, the tents of base camp may be visible in spring. Pumori towers immediately above you.

Choose your time. Sunset lights Everest's face golden, as the summit catches the last sun from the west; it is warmer and suits most trekkers. Sunrise often brings the clearest sky but means starting at 4–5 am in temperatures around minus 15 °C or lower, and the sun rises behind Everest, leaving it in silhouette. Either way, carry headlamp, water, snacks and every warm layer.