Heritage · Junbesi
Junbesi's old gompa and evening kora
Spend a late afternoon in Junbesi's centre, at the old village gompa and the large chorten, walking the kora with older villagers and visiting Serlo Gompa's monastic school. A slow introduction to Sherpa village religion in Solu.
Junbesi's centre is a small square of whitewashed houses around a big chorten and the village gompa, with prayer flags strung from rooftops. Late afternoon is when the village comes out: older women and men walk the kora around the chorten and gompa, spinning hand prayer wheels and murmuring mantras, while children play and lodge keepers chat in doorways.
The village gompa, older than Thubten Chholing, serves Junbesi's lay community. Its lamas, some of them married householders as is common in Sherpa villages, lead rituals for births, deaths, harvests and festivals such as Dumji. Ask the caretaker to open the prayer hall if it is closed; inside are painted walls and statues of Guru Rinpoche and the Buddha.
A short walk away, Serlo Gompa runs a monastic school for young monks. With permission you may see the classes or the prayer hall. Keep a respectful distance during lessons. Walk clockwise around every sacred structure, leave small donations, and if you are invited for tea in a house, accept. This is Junbesi at its most itself.
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Questions
What is there to see in Junbesi village?
The old village gompa and its large chorten, the Serlo Gompa monastic school, traditional Sherpa houses and fields, and views of Numbur at the head of the valley. Thubten Chholing is an hour's walk north. Late afternoon is the best time, when villagers walk the kora around the chorten.
Are Sherpa village lamas monks?
Not always. In many Sherpa villages, the lamas who serve the village gompa are householders who marry and farm, performing rituals for the community. Celibate monks and nuns live in monasteries such as Tengboche, Thubten Chholing and Serlo. Both traditions are part of the Nyingma school.
Can I visit Serlo Gompa in Junbesi?
Usually yes, with permission. It runs a monastic school for young monks, so be quiet and avoid disturbing classes. The prayer hall can often be opened by a caretaker. Ask your guide to arrange it, remove shoes and hats inside, and leave a small donation.
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