Butter tea in a Pangboche Sherpa kitchen

The traditional Sherpa house is built on two floors: animals, fodder and stores below; above, one long room that is kitchen, living room and often bedroom. The stove sits at its heart, a clay or iron hearth with a pot always on. Shelves along one wall hold polished copper and brass vessels, a family's wealth on display. A small altar with butter lamps and photos of lamas sits in the corner.

Your host will make tea. Black tea boiled with salt is churned with butter in a tall wooden cylinder, poured into a kettle and served in small cups. You drink a little and the cup is filled again. Etiquette is simple: accept with both hands or the right hand, sip before setting it down, and leave it full when you have had enough. Potatoes, tsampa or rildok soup may follow.

Such visits work only when they are genuine, so we arrange them through our guides with families who like having guests, and pay them fairly. Remove your shoes at the door, do not sit with your feet towards the hearth or altar, and ask before photographing anyone. Bring a small gift of fruit or biscuits from Namche. Conversation, with your guide translating, is the point.