Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Far West & Karnali · lake

Ghodaghodi Tal

घोडाघोडी ताल

Ghodaghodi Tal is a chain of forest lakes in Kailali district, listed as a Ramsar wetland of international importance in 2003 and declared a bird sanctuary in 2022. It lies right beside the East-West Highway near Sukhad, so it makes an easy two-to-three-hour stop between Bardia and Shuklaphanta.

  • Stay 0–1 nights
  • Best Nov – Mar
  • तराईTerai
Ghodaghodi Tal
Photo: Ganesh Paudel · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Ghodaghodi Tal

Altitude205 m2.3% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltTeraiतराई · The plains: sal forest, rice, rhino country
Each breath98%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils99.3 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+7.8 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 205 m; real days vary with weather.

Most people drive past Ghodaghodi Tal without knowing it. The East-West Highway runs along its southern shore near Sukhad bazaar, and from a bus window you see only a flash of water and lotus leaves through the trees. Stop, walk ten minutes into the forest, and you are in one of the richest wetlands in the western Terai. Buses and trucks roar past a few hundred metres away, yet herons stand motionless in the shallows and crocodiles bask on the far banks.

Ghodaghodi is not one lake but a cluster of oxbow lakes and marshes at the foot of the Siwalik hills, linked by streams and surrounded by sal and riverine forest. The protected Ramsar site covers about 2,563 hectares at around 205 m. The main lake is the largest, with smaller lakes scattered through the forest around it. Water levels rise and fall with the seasons, and in winter wide margins of mud and reed attract waders and ducks.

For travellers the appeal is birds and reptiles at close range, with almost no other visitors. A survey in February 2021 counted 26 mugger crocodiles across 18 lakes, and the red-crowned roofed turtle, one of Asia's rarest freshwater turtles, lives here. In winter the open water fills with ducks, and herons and kingfishers work the edges year-round. Because it lies on the main road, it costs very little time to see.

Why go

Lakeshore forest walk

A path leads from the highway into the forest around the main lake, with views across open water, lotus beds and reed edges. In two or three hours you can walk part of the shore, stopping at viewpoints for birds and basking crocodiles.

Winter waterbirds

From November to March ducks, grebes, cormorants and herons gather on the open water, with kingfishers, jacanas and purple swamphens along the margins. The bird sanctuary status since 2022 has made the lakes a quiet stop for birders driving west.

Mugger crocodiles

Ghodaghodi's lakes hold a healthy population of mugger crocodiles, the broad-snouted marsh crocodile of South Asia. On sunny winter days they haul out on the banks; scan the far shores with binoculars from the forest path.

The lakeside temple

A small Hindu temple stands near the main lake, where local people of every community come to offer flowers and light lamps, especially at festivals. It is a calm place to watch village life by the water.

An easy stop on the highway

Because the lakes lie just off the East-West Highway near Sukhad, they fit easily into the drive between Bardia and Shuklaphanta, breaking a long day with a walk, birds and a meal. A two-hour stop is enough to see the best of the lakes.

१The story of Ghodaghodi Tal

A forest wetland on the old Terai trail

Before the East-West Highway reached this part of the Terai in the late 20th century, the forest of Kailali was a thinly settled land of Tharu villages, malaria and wildlife. The lakes of Ghodaghodi were fishing grounds and places of worship for the Tharu, who still keep shrines in the forest and on the shore. When the road came it brought settlers from the hills, timber traffic and new pressure on the forest and water, and the bazaar of Sukhad grew up beside the lakes.

In August 2003 Ghodaghodi Tal was listed under the Ramsar Convention as a wetland of international importance. The listing recognised its value for rare reptiles and waterbirds, and as a stepping stone in the forest corridor that links the Siwalik hills to the plains, used by wildlife moving across the far western Terai. It was a significant step for a wetland outside any national park, managed largely with local communities. For local people the listing brought new attention and, with it, new responsibilities for the forest and water.

In March 2022 the area was declared a bird sanctuary, and local community forest groups now share in its care. Pressures remain: fishing, grazing, invasive plants and the highway itself. But the lakes are a good example of how a small, community-managed wetland can still hold crocodiles, otters and rare turtles within sight of a busy road. A quiet walk along the shore shows both sides: the beauty of the lakes and the marks of human use around them. Visiting with a local guide and paying any community fee helps keep that balance in favour of the wetland.

३The people

Who lives here

The villages around the lakes are mostly Tharu, joined since the 1960s by Chhetri, Brahmin and Dalit families from the hills of Doti, Achham and Bajura. In the 2011 census about 41 percent of Ghodaghodi municipality spoke Tharu at home, with Nepali, Doteli and Achhami the other main languages. Families farm rice and wheat, fish in the lakes and run shops and eateries in Sukhad bazaar on the highway.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
ताल
Tal

Lake

Nepali
गोही
Gohi

Crocodile; here the mugger

Nepali
कमल
Kamal

Lotus, growing on the lake edges

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Machha bhat

Freshwater fish curry with rice, the everyday meal of the western Terai. The fish is cooked in mustard oil with turmeric, chilli and tomato and served with rice, lentils and a pickle. Eat it at one of the eating houses in Sukhad bazaar on the highway after your lake walk.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Ghodaghodi Tal was designated a Ramsar wetland of international importance in August 2003. The site covers about 2,563 hectares at around 205 m at the foot of the Siwalik hills in Kailali district.

Wikipedia: Ghodaghodi Tal; Ramsar Convention, Annotated Ramsar List of Nepal

A survey in February 2021 recorded 26 mugger crocodiles across 18 lakes in the Ghodaghodi area. The lakes are also home to the Eurasian otter and the red-crowned roofed turtle.

Wikipedia: Ghodaghodi Tal

Ghodaghodi Tal was declared a bird sanctuary in March 2022, adding protection for the waterbirds that winter on the lakes. It also protects the wetland's role as a resting place for migrating ducks and waders.

Wikipedia: Ghodaghodi Tal

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Ghodaghodi Tal

Road

Ghodaghodi Tal lies beside the East-West Highway near Sukhad bazaar in Kailali, about 58 km east of Dhangadhi, 1.5 hours by road. From Bardia's Thakurdwara it is about 110 km and 2.5–3 hours west, so it sits naturally on the drive from Bardia to Shuklaphanta.

Air

The nearest airport is Dhangadhi, about 1 hour 15 minutes by air from Kathmandu. From the airport a private car reaches the lakes in about 1.5 hours via Attariya and the highway.

Where to stay

Most travellers visit Ghodaghodi as a stop of two or three hours and stay elsewhere: in Bardia to the east, or in Dhangadhi, Attariya or Mahendranagar to the west, which have mid-range hotels. Sukhad bazaar, the market town next to the lakes, has a few simple lodges used by Nepali travellers, with basic rooms and dal bhat. If you want a dawn birding session, a night in Sukhad or Attariya is the practical choice.

Local tips

  • Stop in the morning or late afternoon; midday heat sends birds and crocodiles into cover.
  • Carry binoculars, since most crocodiles and waterbirds are on the far shores.
  • Keep well back from the water's edge; mugger crocodiles are wild and can be anywhere in the reeds.
  • Wear long trousers and use mosquito repellent, especially from April onwards.
  • Ask at the community forest office near the lakes about local guides and any visitor fee; check current status before you travel.

On the map

Ghodaghodi Tal and what is near it

Map of Ghodaghodi Tal, Bardia National Park, Shuklaphanta National ParkIndiaChinaNepalGhodaghodi Tal1Ghodaghodi TalBardia National Park2Bardia National ParkShuklaphanta National Park3Shuklaphanta National Park50 kmN
  1. 1Ghodaghodi Tal
  2. 2Bardia National Park
  3. 3Shuklaphanta National Park
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Ghodaghodi Tal: what travellers ask

Where is Ghodaghodi Tal?

It is in Ghodaghodi municipality in Kailali district, Sudurpashchim Province, beside the East-West Highway near Sukhad bazaar. It is about 58 km east of Dhangadhi and about 110 km west of Bardia's Thakurdwara, so it sits on the main road across the far western Terai.

How much time do I need at Ghodaghodi Tal?

Two to three hours is enough for a walk along the main lake, birding and a temple visit. Serious birders may want a full morning or a night nearby for a dawn start. Most travellers visit it as a stop on the drive between Bardia and Shuklaphanta.

What is the best time to visit Ghodaghodi Tal?

November to March. The weather is cool, winter waterbirds are on the lakes and crocodiles bask on sunny days. April and May are hot, and the monsoon from mid-June to September floods the paths and brings leeches and mosquitoes. Early morning is best for birds.

Why is Ghodaghodi Tal a Ramsar site?

It was listed in 2003 because it is a large, connected system of forest lakes and marshes that supports rare species, including mugger crocodiles, otters and the red-crowned roofed turtle, along with large numbers of waterbirds, and links wildlife habitat between the Siwalik hills and the plains.

Can I swim or boat in Ghodaghodi Tal?

No. Swimming is unsafe because of crocodiles, and the lakes are a protected wetland and bird sanctuary. We are not aware of any regular tourist boating. Enjoy the lakes from the forest paths and viewpoints instead. Boating would disturb the birds and crocodiles that make the lakes special.

Is there accommodation at Ghodaghodi Tal?

Sukhad bazaar next to the lakes has a few simple lodges for Nepali travellers. For more comfort, stay in Bardia, Attariya, Dhangadhi or Mahendranagar and visit as a stop on the road. Book ahead in the festival season of October and November.

What does Ghodaghodi mean?

In Nepali, ghoda means horse and ghodi mare, so the name reads as horse and mare. Local people give different explanations for the name, and we have not found a reliable written source for any of them, so ask your guide which version their village tells.

Is Ghodaghodi Tal worth a stop?

Yes, if you are driving between Bardia and Shuklaphanta anyway. It breaks a long day with a quiet forest walk, good birds and crocodiles, at almost no extra cost in time. It is not worth a special trip from Kathmandu on its own.

Are there tigers at Ghodaghodi Tal?

Tigers have been recorded in the forests around Ghodaghodi, which form part of a wildlife corridor between the Siwalik hills and the plains. Sightings by visitors are very rare. The lakes are about birds, crocodiles and quiet forest, not big cats.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

Easy hills or a 5,000 m pass, a week or a month: three short questions and a planner sends a first plan, with the sleeping height of every night and an itemised price.

  1. १Tell us where, when and how high you want to go
  2. २Get a first plan and an itemised price within one working day
  3. ३Change anything until it fits. Pay a deposit only when you book
Plan my Nepal trip