Heritage · Bhaktapur
Bhaktapur's three squares with a local guide
A morning walk linking Bhaktapur's Durbar Square, Taumadhi and Tachupal through the lanes between them. We see the Golden Gate, Nyatapola, the Bhairav temple, Dattatreya and the Peacock Window, with stops at water spouts, rest houses and family courtyards.
We start at the Durbar Square, in front of the 55-Window Palace and the Golden Gate of 1754, the gilded doorway to the Taleju courtyard where only Hindus may enter. We explain what fell here in 1934 and 2015, which temples are rebuilt and which are originals, and what the stone pillars and bells were for.
Then we walk down to Taumadhi, where Nyatapola rises on its five-stepped base, its stairs flanked by guardians. Beside it, the broad Bhairav temple is the home of the god pulled through the streets at Bisket Jatra. We stop for juju dhau or tea, and look at the chariot sheds and the small Til Mahadev temple tucked behind.
Finally we follow the old main street east to Tachupal, the oldest part of town. The Dattatreya temple faces a square of monasteries, and in a lane nearby the Pujari Math has its famous carved Peacock Window. On the way we pass dyers, weavers and a water spout where women wash clothes, and step into a courtyard or two.
Good for
Questions
How much is the Bhaktapur entry fee?
Foreign visitors pay a heritage fee at the gates, which has been about NPR 1,500 to 1,800 in recent years; SAARC and Chinese visitors pay less. The ticket covers the whole old town and can be extended for longer stays with your passport. Fees change, so check current status before you travel.
Is Bhaktapur better than Kathmandu Durbar Square?
For many travellers, yes. Bhaktapur is quieter, cleaner and more complete as a town, with fewer cars and more daily life in its squares. Kathmandu has the Kumari and the big markets. If you only have time for one heritage city, choose Bhaktapur or Patan.
Can I climb Nyatapola temple?
You can climb the stairs of the stepped base to the top platform, past the stone guardians, for views over Taumadhi. The temple interior is closed to visitors and is opened only to priests. The steps are steep and narrow, so take care, especially with children or after rain.
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