Nature · Kirtipur
Chobhar gorge and Taudaha, where the lake drained
A walk below Kirtipur to the narrow gorge of the Bagmati, where legend says Manjushri cut the hills to drain the valley lake. Visit the Adinath temple hung with pots and pans, the Jal Binayak shrine at the river, and the small Taudaha lake with winter birds.
From Kirtipur, we walk down through fields to Chobhar, a small Newar village on a hill above the Bagmati gorge. At its top stands the Adinath Lokeshwar temple, its walls hung with hundreds of pots, pans and water vessels, many given by newly married couples who hope for a well-stocked home.
Below, the Bagmati squeezes through a narrow rock gorge, crossed by a suspension bridge. This is the cut that, in the Swayambhu Purana, Manjushri made with his sword to drain the valley lake. Geologists explain the lake's draining differently, but the gorge is the valley's natural outlet. On the river bank stands Jal Binayak, a temple to Ganesh.
A short walk south brings us to Taudaha, a small lake ringed by trees. Locals say the serpent king Karkotak lives here, and the lake is not fished. From November to February, migratory ducks and other water birds rest here, and birdwatchers bring binoculars. We return by car or walk back up to Kirtipur.
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Questions
What is the legend of Chobhar gorge?
In the Swayambhu Purana, the Kathmandu Valley was a lake until the bodhisattva Manjushri cut a gorge at Chobhar with his sword, letting the water drain. Hindu versions credit Krishna. Geologists agree the valley was once a lake, though they explain its draining by natural causes.
Where is Taudaha lake?
Taudaha is about 6 km south-west of central Kathmandu, beside the road to Pharping and Dakshinkali, and a short walk from Chobhar gorge. It is a small lake surrounded by trees, best visited from November to February when migratory water birds are present.
Why are pots nailed to the Adinath temple at Chobhar?
Many of the pots, pans and vessels on the walls of the Adinath Lokeshwar temple are offerings, often from newly married couples hoping for a prosperous household, and others are given in memory of the dead. The tradition has filled the walls over generations.
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