Kirtipur, Kathmandu Valley: story, things to do and when to go

The air at Kirtipur

Altitude1,400 m15.8% of the way to 8,849 m

BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron

Each breath84%of the oxygen at sea level

Water boils95.3 °Cso dal takes longer here

vs Kathmandu0.0 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,400 m; real days vary with weather.

Kirtipur sits on a long ridge with two low humps, rising above the fields on the south-west side of the valley. Most of Kathmandu knows it as the home of Tribhuvan University, whose campus spreads over the lower slopes. Above it, the old Newar town still keeps its brick lanes, open squares and temples, and feels a world away from the city it overlooks.

The town's story is one of resistance. In the 1750s and 1760s, as Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha closed in on the valley, Kirtipur's defenders beat back his army twice before a long siege forced them to surrender in 1767. The cost was terrible, but the town is proud of its defiance, and the story is told in its temples and its people.

Today Kirtipur is a pleasant half-day trip, easily combined with the Chobhar gorge, where legend says Manjushri drained the valley lake, and the small Taudaha lake. Eat at Newa Lahana, a restaurant run by local women, and walk the ridge at sunset for views over Kathmandu to the Himalaya on clear days.

Why go

Bagh Bhairab temple

A three-roofed pagoda to Bhairav in the form of a tiger, in the middle of the old town. Swords linked to the Battle of Kirtipur are displayed on the temple. Busiest with worshippers in the early morning.

Uma Maheshwar on the hilltop

At the top of the ridge, a temple to Shiva and Parvati guarded by stone elephants, with views over the valley. On clear mornings in autumn and winter, you can see the Himalaya to the north.

Chilancho stupa

On the southern hump of the ridge, a large white stupa surrounded by smaller chaityas and Buddhist courtyards. It is a quiet place, used by local Buddhists for daily kora.

Newa Lahana

A Newar restaurant run by a cooperative of Kirtipur women, serving samay baji, bara, chatamari and seasonal dishes in a traditional house. Good value and a good cause.

Chobhar gorge and Taudaha

At the foot of the ridge, the narrow gorge where legend says Manjushri drained the valley, with the Adinath and Jal Binayak temples nearby, and the small Taudaha lake, home to the serpent king.

१The story of Kirtipur

The siege of Kirtipur, 1757 to 1767

In the 18th century Kirtipur belonged to the kingdom of Patan and guarded the south-western approach to the valley. Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha, set on conquering the valley, saw it as the key. His first assault, in 1757, failed and his commander Kalu Pande was killed. A second attack in 1764 also failed, and the king's brother Surpratap Shah lost an eye to an arrow.

The third campaign, in 1767, turned to siege. The Gorkha army cut off food and water from the ridge town for months, while the other valley kings did not come to its aid. Kirtipur surrendered. Accounts, including that of a Capuchin missionary in the valley, say the conqueror ordered the noses of the town's men to be cut off as punishment. Kathmandu and Patan fell the next year.

Kirtipur stayed a farming and weaving town until the 1960s, when Tribhuvan University, founded in 1959, built its main campus on the slopes below. The town has grown fast since, but its upper core keeps its temples and squares. Community groups have restored houses and water spouts, and a cooperative of local women opened Newa Lahana to keep Kirtipur's cooking alive.

२The legend

As it is told · कीर्तिपुर

Local legend says that at the foot of the Kirtipur ridge, at Chobhar, the bodhisattva Manjushri cut the hills with his sword to drain the valley lake. As the water rushed out, many of the serpents who lived in it were left stranded. Their king, Karkotak, was given a new home in a small pond nearby: Taudaha, where people say he still lives, which is why its waters are never fished.

३The people

Who lives here

Kirtipur's old town is Newar, mainly Jyapu farming families, along with Shakya and Bajracharya Buddhist households and craftsmen. Many still farm the fields below the ridge and keep the town's festivals through guthis. The university has brought students and teachers from every part of Nepal, and the lower town is mixed and busy, while the upper lanes still speak Nepal Bhasa first.

Local name: Kipu (Nepal Bhasa)

४Words you will hear

Nepal Bhasa

किपू

Kipu

Kirtipur, the Newar name for the town

Nepali

भोज

Bhoj

Feast, often a community meal after a ritual or festival

Nepal Bhasa

नासःद्यः

Nasa dyah

God of music and dance, worshipped by Newar musicians

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Chhoyla

Buffalo meat grilled over straw or flame, then cut small and tossed with mustard oil, chilli, garlic, ginger and timur pepper. It is served with beaten rice and is part of every samay baji. Try it at Newa Lahana in Kirtipur, a restaurant run by local Newar women.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Prithvi Narayan Shah attacked Kirtipur three times. His first assault in 1757 failed and his commander Kalu Pande was killed, and the second in 1764 also failed. Kirtipur fell only in 1767, after a long siege.

Wikipedia: Battle of Kirtipur

Tribhuvan University, Nepal's oldest university, founded in 1959, has its main campus on the slopes of Kirtipur, so much of the town's modern life revolves around students and teachers.

Wikipedia: Tribhuvan University

Taudaha, a small lake below Kirtipur, is believed locally to be the home of Karkotak, king of serpents, after the valley lake drained. It is a winter stop for migratory water birds.

Wikipedia: Taudaha

Untold Nepal, region by region

Experiences

Four ways to spend a day in Kirtipur

Heritage

Kirtipur2.5 hours

Kirtipur's siege story told on its ridge

A walk through Kirtipur's old town with the story of the siege of 1757 to 1767: Bagh Bhairab's temple with …

Food

Kirtipur1.5 hours

Lunch at Newa Lahana, run by Kirtipur's women

A long Newar lunch at a restaurant run by a cooperative of Kirtipur women, in a traditional brick house in …

Nature

Kirtipur3 hours

Chobhar gorge and Taudaha, where the lake drained

A walk below Kirtipur to the narrow gorge of the Bagmati, where legend says Manjushri cut the hills to drain …

Nature

Kirtipur4 hours

Cable car up Chandragiri for Himalayan views

From Kirtipur, drive 30 minutes to Thankot and ride the cable car to the top of Chandragiri, about 2,500 m, …

Getting there

How to reach Kirtipur

Road

Kirtipur is about 5 km south-west of central Kathmandu. A taxi takes about 30 minutes from Thamel via the Balkhu bridge and Tribhuvan University. Microbuses run from Ratnapark to Kirtipur Naya Bazaar, at the foot of the old town. Walk up the steps from there.

On foot

From Chobhar gorge, a 45-minute walk through fields and villages leads up to Kirtipur's old town. From Patan, the walk via Pangga and Nagaun takes about 2 hours on lanes and field paths.

Where to stay

Kirtipur has few places to stay, mostly small guesthouses near the university, and most travellers visit as a half-day trip from Kathmandu or Patan. Staying in Patan, 30 minutes away, makes it easy to combine Kirtipur with Bungamati and Chobhar. For more comfort, stay in central Kathmandu at Hotel Yak & Yeti or Hotel Shanker and take a taxi in the morning.

Local tips

Start at Kirtipur Naya Bazaar and walk up; the old town lanes are too narrow for cars.
Go on a clear autumn or winter morning for mountain views from Uma Maheshwar temple.
Ask before entering temple courtyards, and walk clockwise round the Chilancho stupa.
Book a table at Newa Lahana for groups; it is popular with Kathmandu families at weekends.
Combine Kirtipur with Chobhar and Taudaha, all within 3 km, for a full day out.

On the map

Kirtipur and what is near it

Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Nearby

Pair Kirtipur with

Kathmandu Valley1,350 m

old townPahadपाटन

Patan

Yala, the city of metalworkers, courtyards and Buddhist bahals

Mar – May · Oct – Nov

Kathmandu Valley1,350 m

villagePahadबुङ्गमती

Bungamati

Home village of the red rain god, and of the valley's woodcarvers

Oct – Apr

Kathmandu Valley1,450 m

pilgrimage sitePahadफर्पिङ

Pharping

Guru Rinpoche's caves and the gorge of Dakshinkali on the southern rim

Oct – Apr

Kathmandu Valley1,420 m

pilgrimage sitePahadस्वयम्भूनाथ

Swayambhunath

The self-born stupa on the hill where the valley's story begins

Feb – Apr · Oct – Nov

Questions

Kirtipur: what travellers ask

Is Kirtipur worth visiting?

Yes, if you want a quieter Newar town with real history and few tourists. It has temples, a stupa, valley views and some of the best value Newar food in the valley at Newa Lahana. It combines well with Chobhar gorge and Taudaha for a half or full day.

How do I get to Kirtipur from Thamel?

A taxi takes about 30 minutes for the 7 km via Kalimati or Balkhu and Tribhuvan University. Microbuses from Ratnapark run to Kirtipur Naya Bazaar, from where you walk up the steps into the old town. Ride-hailing apps also work.

What happened at Kirtipur in 1767?

After failing twice, in 1757 and 1764, Prithvi Narayan Shah's Gorkha army besieged Kirtipur in 1767 and forced it to surrender. Accounts say he punished the town's men by cutting off their noses. Kirtipur's fall opened the way to his conquest of Kathmandu and Patan in 1768.

Can I see the Himalaya from Kirtipur?

On clear mornings from October to February, yes, from the top of the ridge near Uma Maheshwar temple, looking north over Kathmandu. Views are hazy for much of the rest of the year. For a bigger panorama, take the Chandragiri cable car, 30 minutes away.

Is Kirtipur part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site?

No. The Kathmandu Valley UNESCO site is made up of seven monument zones, and Kirtipur is not one of them. That is part of its appeal: it is lived in, unticketed at the time of writing and much quieter than the Durbar Squares.

What is Tribhuvan University?

Tribhuvan University is Nepal's oldest university, founded in 1959, with its main campus spread across the lower slopes of Kirtipur. Thousands of students study here, which gives Kirtipur cheap cafes and a lively lower town. The upper old town is quieter and more traditional.

How long should I spend in Kirtipur?

Half a day is enough for the old town, temples and a meal. A full day lets you add Chobhar gorge, Taudaha lake and either the Chandragiri cable car or a walk to Bungamati. Few visitors stay overnight; most come from Kathmandu or Patan.

Can I walk from Kirtipur to Chobhar?

Yes. It is about 3 km and 45 minutes to an hour through fields and the edges of villages, mostly downhill. From Chobhar, Taudaha lake is another 15 to 20 minutes on foot. A guide helps with the route, which is not signposted.

What festivals happen in Kirtipur?

Kirtipur keeps the Newar festival calendar, including chariot processions and masked dances in its old town, and Indra Jatra and Dashain rituals at Bagh Bhairab. Dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year. Ask us when you book and we will check what falls during your visit.