Spiritual · Swayambhunath
Climb the 365 steps with Kathmandu at dawn
Climb the old eastern stairway at first light with locals heading to prayers and exercise. Reach the summit as butter lamps burn, watch priests open the shrines, and walk the stupa clockwise as the city appears below the morning mist.
We meet at the foot of the hill at about 6 am, where stone Buddhas and a gate mark the start of the eastern stairway. The steps climb through trees, with small chaityas and carved figures on either side. Monkeys leap across the rails, and people of all ages pass us: elderly women with offering plates, runners, office workers fitting in a climb before work.
At the top, the great gilded vajra, the thunderbolt, sits on its drum in front of the stupa. We walk round the dome clockwise, turning the prayer wheels, and stop to watch Newar priests make the morning offerings. Butter lamps burn in a small house beside the stupa, and Tibetan monks may be chanting in the nearby monastery.
As the mist lifts, the valley appears to the east: Kathmandu's old core, the white Dharahara tower, and on a clear morning the hills of the rim and beyond. We stop for tea at a stall, then walk down the stairway or round the hill kora before breakfast.
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Questions
How many steps are there at Swayambhunath?
The eastern stairway is usually said to have 365 steps, one for each day of the year. It is steep, especially near the top, and takes 15 to 25 minutes at an easy pace. If steps are difficult, a taxi can take you to the western car park, close to the summit.
What is the best time to visit Swayambhunath?
Early morning, from about 6 to 8 am, when locals climb for prayers and the air is clear, or late afternoon for sunset over the city. Midday is hotter, hazier and busier with tour groups. October to April has the clearest views of the valley and mountains.
Why is Swayambhunath called the Monkey Temple?
Because hundreds of rhesus macaques live on the hill and in its trees. Local legend says they grew from lice in the hair of Manjushri, who drained the valley lake. They are considered holy, but they steal food and bags, so keep snacks hidden and do not feed them.
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