Walk with the pilgrims at Janai Purnima

Janai Purnima is the day Brahmin and Chhetri men change their sacred thread and everyone ties a protective cord on the wrist. At Gosaikunda it becomes a mass pilgrimage. Families, sadhus and shamans walk up from Dhunche over two or three days in monsoon rain, carrying offerings and food, and the trail is busy with people of every age. The walk is social: pilgrims share food, sing bhajans and help each other on the steep sections. Many have done it for years and will tell you why they come.

On the night before the full moon the shore fills with tents, fires and pilgrims. Tamang and other shamans, dhami and jhankri, dance in white skirts and feather headdresses, beating drums. At dawn pilgrims step into the icy water to bathe, then pray at the Shiva shrine. For a visitor it is a rare chance to see Himalayan Hinduism and shamanism together. Stay back from the water's edge during the bathing, give the shamans space and keep your camera low. Some pilgrims also make offerings at the shore in memory of family members who have died.

It is a hard trip: rain, mud, leeches, crowds and full lodges. We plan it with tents or pre-booked lodge space, an extra acclimatisation day, and an experienced guide. Road access to Dhunche runs through areas hit by the August 2026 flood; check current status before you travel. Bring rain gear, a warm sleeping bag, headlamp, water purification and spare dry clothes in waterproof bags. Expect to share rooms or sleep in a tent. The walk down after the festival is busy and slippery, so take your time.