Sunset over Manaslu from Laurebina

Laurebina is a small group of lodges on an open ridge below the lake, and most trekkers sleep here on the way up. The view to the west is one of the broadest on any trek near Kathmandu: Ganesh Himal close by, Manaslu beyond it, and in very clear weather the Annapurna range far in the distance. Langtang Lirung shows to the north. Laurebina has long been a resting point for pilgrims too, and at Janai Purnima its lodges and terraces fill with families on their way to the lake.

In the late afternoon, climb the short slope behind the lodges to a rise with prayer flags and a small shrine. As the sun sets, the snow peaks turn gold and then pink while the valleys below fill with shadow. It gets cold fast, so bring a down jacket, hat and gloves. The best light comes in the last 30 minutes before sunset, so be in position early. Photographers should bring a telephoto lens for close shots of Manaslu and Ganesh Himal. Keep spare batteries warm inside your jacket.

Sleeping at Laurebina also helps with acclimatisation before Gosaikunda, which is about 500 m higher. Next morning, start early for the lake and you will often have the view again in clear dawn light. Dinner at the lodge is usually dal bhat, noodles or potatoes, with garlic soup a favourite on the trail. Drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol and get to bed early. The lake is about 2 to 3 hours further on, and an early start gives you the best weather.