Walk the cave cliffs of the Chhoser valley

From Chhoser village we walk along the stream through fields and willows, with the valley walls rising on either side. The cliffs are made of soft sedimentary rock in bands of grey, cream and ochre, easy to dig but quick to erode. Along them run rows of dark openings, some within reach, many high and long cut off as the cliff faces have retreated. Your guide will help you pick out stacked caves, linked by internal passages.

As we walk, the guide tells the story of the caves of Mustang, about 10,000 of them across the district: burial chambers 2,000–3,000 years ago, homes in unsettled times, meditation cells and libraries later. Since the 1990s, teams of archaeologists and climbers have found human remains, Buddhist paintings and manuscripts in caves across Upper Mustang, though many caves remain unexplored. Every cave you see has a story still waiting to be told, and the guide will share what is known.

The walk is easy, mostly flat and about 2–3 hours at a slow pace. In the early morning or late afternoon, low light picks out the cave openings in sharp shadow, the best time for photographs. Do not attempt to climb to any cave; the rock is unstable and the sites are fragile heritage. Carry water, sun protection and warm layers, since the valley can be cold in shade. Binoculars help.