Up the Tarap Khola gorge to Dho

From Juphal we walk down to Dunai, the district headquarters on the Thuli Bheri, and follow that river east for a day or two through villages such as Tarakot, an old fortified settlement on a hill above the river. Then the trail turns north into the Tarap Khola, and the valley quickly narrows into a deep gorge. Pine and juniper forest cling to the slopes, and the river roars below.

For two or three days the trail threads through the gorge, sometimes on paths built out from the cliff on stone and wood, sometimes crossing the river on log bridges or small suspension bridges. Camps are in clearings by the river, sheltered by the trees while they last. This is wild, empty country; you may meet only herders and occasional mule trains carrying supplies up to Dho. Days settle into a steady rhythm of walking, tea and camp.

Gradually the trees thin and disappear, the valley widens, and the air turns dry and thin. On the last day you climb into the open upper valley and see the stone villages of Dho Tarap ahead, at about 4,040 m. The steady gain over six days is good for acclimatisation. Trails in the gorge can be damaged by rockfall or floods; check current status before you travel. Few arrivals in Nepal feel as well earned.