Heritage · Lo Manthang
Dawn walk around and inside the walled city
A walk around the outside of Lo Manthang's walls at first light, then in through the single gate to the lanes, squares and the palace square, with a guide from Lo who can explain how the city was built, defended and lived in for more than six centuries.
We leave the lodge as the sky begins to lighten and follow the path around the outside of the city walls. They are built of mud brick on stone foundations, rising high above the path, with towers at the corners and at intervals along the sides. Chortens and mani walls stand outside. As the sun rises, the light moves across the walls from pale grey to warm gold, and the first smoke rises from kitchen fires inside.
We enter through the gate, the only way in through the walls, and walk the lanes. Houses are packed close, two or three storeys high, with animals on the ground floor, families above and flat roofs stacked with firewood. Your guide will point out the old water channels, prayer wheels, and the doorways where families hang protective charms. Women spin wool in the sun, and horses wait to be loaded for the fields.
We finish in the palace square, in front of the five-storey royal palace, home of the kings of Lo until 2008. Your guide will tell the story of Ame Pal, the founder, and of Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, the last king. From here the city's great gompas are a few steps away. Breakfast follows, and the rest of the day is for the monasteries. Take a warm layer; dawn is cold even in summer.
Good for
Questions
How old is the wall around Lo Manthang?
The wall dates from the founding of the city by Ame Pal in about 1380, and has been repaired and rebuilt many times since. It is built of mud brick on stone foundations, with towers at the corners and along the sides. Much of the city inside has changed little in shape since the 15th century.
Does Lo Manthang have only one gate?
Yes. Lo Manthang's walls traditionally have a single main gate, which was closed at night. All traffic in and out of the city passed through it, which made the city easy to defend and control. Today you enter through the same gate; vehicles stay outside, and the lanes inside are only for people and animals.
Can I visit the royal palace in Lo Manthang?
Access to the palace interior is limited and has changed over time; it remains the family property of the former royal family, and parts have undergone repair. Your guide will check whether any visits are possible during your stay. Even from outside, in the palace square, its five storeys and nine corners are impressive.
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