Spiritual · Lubra
Visit Lubra's Bon monastery with a local guide
Meet the old religion of Tibet in Lubra's monastery: Bon statues and paintings, a counter-clockwise kora and, if he is home, a conversation with the lama about how Bon differs from the Buddhism of the villages around it.
Lubra's monastery stands among the houses of the village, a modest building of stone and whitewash with prayer flags and a small courtyard. It is the centre of the village's religious life and holds Bon statues, wall paintings and texts kept here for generations. It is usually locked, so your guide will find the caretaker or lama first. Leave shoes and hats outside the door, and keep your voice low.
Inside, the images look familiar at first: seated figures, offerings of butter lamps and water bowls, thangkas and painted protector deities. Look closely and differences appear. Bon has its own founder, Tonpa Shenrab, its own enlightened beings and its own swastika, the yungdrung, which turns the opposite way from the Buddhist one. Walk around the hall and the monastery counter-clockwise, the Bon way. Your guide can point out the differences one by one.
If the lama has time, your guide can translate a short conversation about Bon practice in the village, the festivals of the year and the challenges facing a small community. Be patient and respectful; he is not a tour guide. Leave a donation for the monastery's upkeep, at least NPR 500 per group. Photography inside is a matter of permission, so ask first and accept the answer. A visit of about an hour is enough.
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Questions
What is Bon religion?
Bon is a religious tradition of Tibet that Tibetans associate with the time before and alongside Buddhism. Modern Bon, called Yungdrung Bon, follows the teacher Tonpa Shenrab and has its own monasteries, scriptures and lamas. In practice it resembles Tibetan Buddhism in many ways, with enlightenment as its goal, but Bon followers walk and turn prayer wheels counter-clockwise.
Is there an entry fee for Lubra monastery?
There is usually no fixed ticket, but a donation is expected and important for the upkeep of the monastery in such a small village. We suggest at least NPR 500 per group, more if the lama spends time with you. The monastery is often locked, so a guide is needed to find the caretaker.
Which way do I walk around chortens in Lubra?
Counter-clockwise, keeping the chorten or monastery on your left. This is the Bon custom and the opposite of the Buddhist direction used in Kagbeni, Jomsom and most of Mustang. Turn prayer wheels the same way. If you are not sure, watch the villagers or ask your guide.
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