Lakeshore walk from Ringmo

We leave Ringmo after breakfast, when the lake is still and the light low. The path follows the southern and eastern shore, past chortens, mani walls and the small fields of the village. The water changes colour constantly: pale green in the shallows, turquoise further out, deep blue in the centre where the lake drops to over 130 m. Snow peaks and bare grey cliffs rise all around, reflected on calm mornings.

After about an hour we reach the Bon gompa on the eastern shore, where prayer flags stretch from the roof to the water's edge. A caretaker may be present to open the shrine room. The gompa holds annual prayers, and its position makes it one of the most photographed buildings in Dolpo. Walk around it counter-clockwise, the Bon way, and leave a donation. Sit for a while on the shore; it is a deeply peaceful place.

We return to Ringmo by the same path, perhaps stopping at viewpoints above the shore for a different angle on the lake. By midday the wind rises and ruffles the surface, so the morning is best for reflections. Do not swim or wash in the lake; it is sacred to the people of Ringmo, and the water is extremely cold. Carry water and sun protection. Allow about three hours for the whole walk.