Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Food · Dhampus

Cook dal bhat and millet roti with a Gurung family

Join a Dhampus family in the kitchen to cook the evening meal: dal, rice, seasonal vegetables, pickles and millet roti, cooked on a wood or gas fire and eaten together. A homestay highlight, arranged in advance.

Takes2–3 hours
Best timeEvening, year-round
Height1,650 m
Cook dal bhat and millet roti with a Gurung family
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Dinner in a hill village starts long before dark. Rice is picked over, lentils soaked, greens picked from the garden. Your host will show you how to temper dal with jimbu or cumin in hot ghee, how to fry saag with garlic and chilli, and how to grind a tomato and timur pickle on a flat stone. The fire is the centre of the house. Kitchens are smoky and low, so keep your head down and your camera away from the fire.

Millet is the old grain of these ridges. Kodo flour becomes thick dhido, stirred hard in a heavy pot, or flat roti cooked on a griddle. Taste them with ghee and you understand why older villagers still prefer them to rice. In season there may be gundruk, fermented dried greens, or a local chicken curry for guests. Honey from local hives is sometimes served with breakfast roti.

Eat together, usually sitting near the fire. Use your right hand if you want to eat Nepali style, or ask for a spoon. Second and third servings will be offered; to stop, say pugyo, enough, and cover the plate with your hand. Arrange the cooking session through your guide a day ahead. Tell your host about any allergies or diet needs; vegetarian food is normal and easy. A small payment for the experience is usually included in the homestay price.

Good for

FamiliesCouplesSoloFirst-timers

Questions

Can I take a cooking class in Dhampus?

There is no formal cooking school, but homestays and family lodges in Dhampus will often let you join the kitchen and cook the evening meal with them if you ask in advance. Your guide can arrange it. Expect a relaxed, hands-on session rather than a structured class, and a meal of dal bhat and seasonal vegetables.

What is dhido?

Dhido is a thick, smooth porridge made by stirring millet, buckwheat or maize flour into boiling water until it becomes stiff. It is eaten with dal, greens, pickle and ghee, by hand, and was the staple of hill villages before rice became common. It is filling and slow-burning, ideal for trekking days.

Is homestay food safe for travellers?

Freshly cooked, hot food from a family kitchen is generally safe. Drink boiled, filtered or treated water, avoid raw salads if you have a sensitive stomach, and wash or sanitise your hands before eating. Tell your host about allergies, vegetarian or other needs in advance; vegetarian dal bhat is normal and easy to provide.

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