Climb the Phedi steps to Dhampus

Phedi means the foot of a hill, and that is what it is: a handful of shops on the Pokhara–Baglung road where the trail begins. You cross a small stream and start up. The steps are uneven stone, laid by villagers and maintained over decades, climbing steeply through forest of chestnut, schima and rhododendron with glimpses of terraces through the trees. Some sections are steep enough that you will want to stop every few minutes, and that is fine.

Go slowly. Your guide will say bistarai, slowly, and mean it. You share the path with villagers carrying loads, schoolchildren running down and porters heading up. Tea shops appear at the right moments. After about an hour and a half the gradient eases, the trees open and the first houses of Dhampus appear. Children may walk with you for a while and practise their English; it is a friendly trail.

Then the reward: from the ridge, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre stand across the valley, often with the morning still clear. Stop for tea on a lodge terrace and let your legs recover. Many walkers decide here that they like trekking; a few decide they will take the jeep next time. If you arrive in the morning, the views are usually clear until about 10 am. Lodges serve lunch from late morning, and many walkers continue to Pothana or Australian Camp in the afternoon.