Best time for Pokhara and the Annapurnas, month by month

Nepal's weather is ruled by the monsoon. From about mid-June to mid-September, moist air from the Bay of Bengal pushes against the Himalaya and falls as rain. Pokhara sits right under the Annapurna wall, which lifts that air sharply, and it is one of the wettest places in Nepal, with most of its rain falling in those months. When the monsoon ends, the air is washed clean, and October and November are famous for the clearest skies of the year.

The second good season is spring, from March to early May, when the days are warm, the rhododendron forests flower and the trails are lively again. The views are softer, with haze building through the morning. Winter, December to February, is clear and quiet, and excellent for the lower treks, but high passes close and nights above 3,500 m are bitterly cold.

The north side of the Annapurnas is different. Manang and the Mustang side of Thorong La lie in the rain shadow of the range and get only a fraction of Pokhara's rainfall. In the monsoon, when Pokhara is under cloud, the upper Annapurna Circuit can still be walked, although the road and trail below Chame suffer from landslides.

This table rates each month for a visit to Pokhara and for trekking on the main routes. Temperatures are rough daytime highs and night lows in Pokhara; on the trails, subtract about 6 °C for every 1,000 m you climb.

This is the main season, and for good reason. Rain usually stops by early October, the air is clear and the peaks stand out sharply from Sarangkot, Poon Hill and the sanctuary. Days in Pokhara are warm, around 25 °C, and nights fresh. On the trails, days are sunny, and high nights drop well below freezing from November, especially at ABC, Mardi High Camp and Thorong Phedi.

The cost of perfect weather is crowds. Lodges at Ghorepani, Mardi High Camp and ABC fill up, flights to Pokhara and Jomsom book out, and the summit of Poon Hill at dawn is shoulder to shoulder. Book early, and if you can, walk the less famous routes such as Khopra or the high route through Ngawal on the Circuit. Dashain, the biggest festival of the year, usually falls in October, and Tihar follows two or three weeks later; buses and hotels are busy as Nepalis travel home.

Late November and early December are a sweet spot. The crowds thin after the main holiday weeks, the skies stay clear, and lodge owners have time to talk. It is colder high up, so bring a warmer sleeping bag, but on Poon Hill, Mardi Himal and ABC the views are often at their sharpest as the air dries out toward winter.

Winter is underrated. Skies are often clear for days, Pokhara is mild at noon, and trails and lodges are quiet. Poon Hill, Ghandruk, Panchase, Dhampus and the Royal Trek are at their best for views. Mornings in the valley can start with fog over Phewa Lake that burns off by ten.

Higher up, winter needs care. Nights at ABC fall to minus 15 °C or lower, snow can block the trail above Deurali, and the avalanche-prone section below MBC is sometimes closed after heavy snowfall, especially from January to March. Thorong La is often impassable after snow from late December to February; some trekkers cross in good spells, but you must allow spare days and be ready to turn back. Many lodges at the highest points close for part of the winter. Tamu Lhosar, the Gurung New Year, around 30 December, brings dances and processions to Pokhara.

Spring is the season of rhododendron, Nepal's national flower. From late February at lower heights to April around Ghorepani, Tadapani and the Mardi Himal forest, whole hillsides turn red, pink and white. Days are warm and long, and it is a good time for the higher treks once the winter snow has settled. Views are clearest early in the morning; by midday, haze and building cloud often hide the peaks, and late afternoon thunderstorms become more common in May.

April is the best spring month for most trekkers. May is hot in Pokhara, often above 30 °C, with dusty, hazy air, but the high trails are pleasant. Nepali New Year, Navavarsha, in mid-April, is a public holiday and a busy time for domestic travel.

Monsoon in Pokhara is heavy, with rain most days and some nights of downpour. The lakes are full, the rice terraces are green, and the city is quiet and cheaper. Mountain views are rare, though they can appear suddenly early in the morning after rain. On the southern trails expect slippery stone steps, leeches in the forest and landslides on jeep roads.

Some trips work well in these months. The upper Annapurna Circuit and Upper Mustang, in the rain shadow, are often dry and green, though the road approach can be slow. Pokhara's lakes, caves, museums and cooking classes are good rainy-day choices. Late September can bring the first clear days, and trekkers who start then often have the trails to themselves before the October rush.

Farmers plant rice in June and July, and the terraces around Pokhara fill with families working knee-deep in mud, singing as they transplant seedlings. Asar 15, at the end of June, is celebrated as National Paddy Day, with mud games in the fields and beaten rice and curd eaten on the bunds. It is one of the best times to see village life in the valley, even if the mountains stay hidden.

Festivals change the feel of a trip, filling buses and temples but also opening doors to family celebrations. The main ones in and around Pokhara fall roughly as follows; exact dates move with the lunar calendar.

• Late December to early January: Tamu Lhosar and the Pokhara Street Festival in Lakeside.
• February or March: Maha Shivaratri, when Shiva temples fill with devotees and sadhus.
• Mid-April: Nepali New Year, with fairs and picnics by the lakes.
• Late June: Asar 15, National Paddy Day, in the rice fields.
• August: Janai Purnima, when pilgrims climb to hilltop shrines such as Panchase.
• Late September or October: Dashain, with kites, swings and family feasts.
• October or November: Tihar, the festival of lights, with deusi and bhailo songs.

If you can travel any time, choose October to mid-November. If you want flowers and warmth, choose late March or April. If you hate crowds and are happy on the low treks, choose December or January. A few last points help with planning.

• Book flights and lodges early for October and November.
• For Thorong La, aim for October to early December or March to May.
• Plan mountain views for the morning in every season.
• In the monsoon, keep an extra day in every plan for road delays.
• Festival dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year; check current status before you travel.