Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Nature · Tengboche

Forest walk to Deboche and its nunnery

Drop ten minutes from Tengboche through a forest of rhododendron, birch and fir to Deboche, visit its small Buddhist nunnery, and look for Himalayan monal and musk deer along the way. A gentle, shaded walk at about 3,800 m.

Takes1.5 hours
Best timeAfternoon; rhododendron in Apr, gold birch in Oct
Height3,867 m
Forest walk to Deboche and its nunnery
Photo: Thomas Fuhrmann · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Tengboche's saddle is open and windswept, but just below it the trail plunges into one of the finest forests in Khumbu. Tall rhododendron trees, some of them several metres high, grow with silver birch and fir, draped in lichen. In April and early May they flower red, pink and white; in October the birch turns gold. The forest is protected within Sagarmatha National Park and is rich in birds.

Walk slowly and quietly. Himalayan monal, the iridescent national bird of Nepal, and the smaller blood pheasant feed on the forest floor, especially early and late in the day. Musk deer, small and shy, live here too, and Himalayan tahr come down to the edges. Your guide will know where they are usually seen.

Deboche is a small settlement of lodges and a nunnery, home to a small community of Buddhist nuns. If the nuns are at prayer, visitors may sit quietly; otherwise you may see the courtyard. A donation is welcome. Return to Tengboche for sunset, or stay the night in Deboche, which is quieter and often warmer than the exposed saddle above.

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Questions

How far is Deboche from Tengboche?

About ten minutes downhill on foot, and about 15–20 minutes back up. Deboche sits at roughly 3,800 m in the forest on the trail towards Pangboche. It has several lodges, some quieter and more comfortable than those on the Tengboche saddle, and a small nunnery.

Can I visit the Deboche nunnery?

Usually yes, with respect. The nunnery is home to a small community of Buddhist nuns. Visitors may see the courtyard and, if invited, sit quietly during prayers. Remove shoes and hats inside, ask before photographing, and leave a donation. Visits depend on the nuns' schedule, so ask your guide to check.

When do rhododendrons flower near Tengboche?

From about mid-March to early May, depending on altitude and the year, with the forests between Phunki Tenga, Tengboche and Deboche usually best in April. Lower down, around Lukla and Phakding, blooms start earlier. Spring treks combine the flowers with longer days, though mountain views are often hazier than in autumn.

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