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Everest & Solukhumbu · monastery

Tengboche

तेङबोचे Thyangboche; monastery: Dawa Choling Gompa

Tengboche is a ridge-top monastery village at about 3,867 m on the Everest trail, home to the largest gompa in Khumbu. Founded in 1916, it was destroyed by the 1934 earthquake and again by fire in 1989, and rebuilt both times. Its autumn Mani Rimdu and its view of Ama Dablam draw every trekker.

  • Stay 1 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov
  • लेकLekh
Tengboche
Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Tengboche

Altitude3,867 m43.7% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltLekhलेक · High hills: pasture, pine, the last fields
Each breath62%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils86.8 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-16.0 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 3,867 m; real days vary with weather.

After the long descent from Namche to the river at Phunki Tenga and a two-hour climb through rhododendron and fir, the trail tops out on a broad, grassy saddle. Here stands Tengboche: the red and white monastery with its gilded roof, a few lodges, a bakery, and a view that takes in Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Taboche and Thamserku in one turn of the head.

The monastery, properly Dawa Choling Gompa, is the largest in Khumbu and the spiritual centre of Sherpa Buddhism in the valley. Dozens of monks live and study here, and the prayer hall is open to visitors at the afternoon puja. In October or November, the masked dances of Mani Rimdu fill the courtyard with Sherpa families from all over Khumbu.

Most itineraries spend one night at Tengboche or in nearby Deboche, ten minutes downhill through the forest. We like to arrive early enough to walk the ridge before sunset, sit in on the evening chanting, and wake for the first light on Ama Dablam. The walk on to Pangboche the next morning, through birch and rhododendron, is one of the gentlest of the trek.

Why go

Afternoon puja in the prayer hall

Visitors may sit in on the monks' afternoon prayers, usually around 3 pm, with chanting, horns and drums under painted walls. Remove shoes, sit along the side, keep silent and do not photograph during the ritual.

Mani Rimdu in autumn

In October or November the monastery's courtyard hosts Mani Rimdu, three public days of blessings, masked cham dances and a fire ceremony at the end of a 19-day ritual. Rooms fill months ahead, so book early.

Ama Dablam from the meadow

From the grassy saddle in front of the monastery, Ama Dablam's 6,812 m spire rises across the Imja valley, with Everest's summit peeking above the Nuptse–Lhotse wall. Sunset and sunrise give the best light.

The forest walk to Deboche

Ten minutes down through rhododendron, birch and fir, Deboche has quiet lodges and a small nunnery. In April the rhododendrons flower red and pink; in autumn the birch turns gold.

Wildlife on the climb

The forest on the climb from Phunki Tenga holds Himalayan monal, blood pheasant and musk deer. Walk quietly in the early morning for the best chance of seeing them.

१The story of Tengboche

Founded in 1916, shaken in 1934, burned in 1989

Buddhism reached Khumbu some 350 years ago, and the valley's oldest gompa, at Pangboche, is attributed to Lama Sangwa Dorje. But Tengboche is younger. In the early 20th century Ngawang Tenzin Norbu, the abbot of Rongbuk Monastery on the Tibetan side of Everest, was revered by Khumbu Sherpas. He blessed a Khumbu lama, Chatang Chotar, known as Lama Gulu, to found a monastery on this ridge. With funds from three wealthy Sherpa patrons, it was built in 1916, the first celibate Nyingma monastery in Khumbu.

In 1934 a great earthquake destroyed the buildings, and Lama Gulu died soon after. His successor, Umze Gelden, rebuilt with support from Rongbuk, helped by local Sherpas and a carpenter from Lhasa. Tengboche grew into the heart of Khumbu's religious life. Tenzing Norgay was sent here as a boy to be a monk, though he did not stay. The 1953 Everest expedition camped near the monastery on its way in.

In January 1989 a fire, reportedly started by an electrical fault, destroyed the main temple with many of its scriptures and paintings. The rebuilding took years and drew help from Sherpa families, volunteers and international donors, among them Hillary's Himalayan Trust. The new temple was consecrated in the early 1990s. Today the monastery runs a school for young monks and a small cultural centre.

२The legend
As it is told · तेङबोचे

Monastery accounts say that long before Tengboche was built, Lama Sangwa Dorje, founder of Pangboche's gompa, meditated on this ridge and left the print of his foot on a rock. Through his clairvoyant vision he foretold that a monastery would one day stand here. When Ngawang Tenzin Norbu, regarded as Sangwa Dorje's fifth incarnation, blessed Lama Gulu to found Tengboche in 1916, the prophecy was said to be fulfilled.

३The people

Who lives here

Tengboche is a monastic community rather than a village: dozens of monks, many of them boys and young men from Sherpa families across Khumbu and Solu, studying ritual, scripture and Tibetan. A few lay families run lodges and a bakery. Deboche, ten minutes below, has a small Buddhist nunnery. Sherpa and Tibetan are the languages of the gompa; Nepali and English are spoken in the lodges.

Local name: Thyangboche; monastery: Dawa Choling Gompa

४Words you will hear
Tibetan
རིན་པོ་ཆེ
rinpoche

'Precious one', title of a recognised reincarnate lama

Nepali
पूजा
puja

Prayer ritual; Tengboche's afternoon puja is open to visitors

Tibetan
ཨོཾ་མ་ཎི་པདྨེ་ཧཱུྃ
om mani padme hum

Mantra of compassion carved on mani stones along the trail

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Garlic soup

Every lodge menu from Tengboche upward offers garlic soup, and guides swear by it against altitude. There is no strong medical evidence that it helps, but it is hot, salty and encourages you to drink, which does. Order a bowl after the climb from Phunki Tenga.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Tengboche was founded in 1916 by Lama Gulu with strong links to Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet, and was the first celibate monastery of the Nyingma school in Khumbu.

Wikipedia: Tengboche Monastery

The monastery has been destroyed twice: by an earthquake in 1934 and by fire in 1989. Both times it was rebuilt, the second time with volunteers and international assistance.

Wikipedia: Tengboche Monastery

Tenzing Norgay was sent to Tengboche as a boy to become a monk. He left the monastic life and later reached Everest's summit with Edmund Hillary in 1953.

Wikipedia: Tengboche

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Tengboche

On foot

From Namche Bazaar, about 5–6 hours: a contouring trail to Kyangjuma and Sanasa, a descent to the Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga, then a steady 2-hour climb of about 600 m through forest to the saddle.

Air

The nearest airport is Lukla, four walking days away. Helicopters land near Tengboche for emergencies and charters only.

Where to stay

Tengboche has a few lodges on the saddle in front of the monastery, simple and often full in October and November, especially during Mani Rimdu. Deboche, about ten minutes downhill through the forest, has several more lodges, some with attached bathrooms, and is quieter. For more comfort, Everest Summit Lodge in Pangboche is about 1.5–2 hours further on. We book Tengboche itself when the timing of puja or festival matters, and Deboche otherwise.

Local tips

  • Arrive by early afternoon to catch the monks' puja, usually around 3 pm.
  • Book rooms months ahead if you want to be here for Mani Rimdu.
  • Pace the climb from Phunki Tenga slowly; it gains about 600 m.
  • Do not photograph inside the prayer hall during rituals.
  • Get up for sunrise on Ama Dablam, and wear every warm layer you have.

On the map

Tengboche and what is near it

Map of Tengboche, Pangboche, Namche Bazaar, Khumjung, DingbocheIndiaChinaNepalKoshiTengboche1TengbochePangboche2PangbocheNamche Bazaar3Namche BazaarKhumjung4KhumjungDingboche5Dingboche50 kmN
  1. 1Tengboche
  2. 2Pangboche
  3. 3Namche Bazaar
  4. 4Khumjung
  5. 5Dingboche
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Trips

Trips that stop in Tengboche

Questions

Tengboche: what travellers ask

How high is Tengboche?

Tengboche monastery stands at about 3,867 m on a ridge between the Dudh Koshi and Imja Khola valleys. It is roughly 430 m higher than Namche Bazaar, though the walk involves descending to the river at Phunki Tenga, about 3,250 m, and then climbing about 600 m to the saddle.

How long is the walk from Namche to Tengboche?

About 5–6 hours. The trail contours above the Dudh Koshi to Kyangjuma and Sanasa, descends to Phunki Tenga at the river, and climbs steadily through forest for about two hours to Tengboche. It is a rewarding day with Ama Dablam ahead much of the way.

When was Tengboche Monastery built?

It was founded in 1916 by Lama Gulu, with the blessing of the abbot of Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet. An earthquake destroyed it in 1934, and it was rebuilt. A fire destroyed the main temple in 1989, and it was rebuilt again with help from volunteers and international donors, reconsecrated in the early 1990s.

Can I stay overnight at Tengboche?

Yes. There are a few lodges on the saddle in front of the monastery and more in Deboche, ten minutes down through the forest. Tengboche rooms fill early in October and November, especially at Mani Rimdu. Nights are cold, often well below freezing. Book ahead for festival dates.

Is Tengboche or Deboche better for an overnight stay?

Tengboche puts you beside the monastery for the afternoon puja, sunset and sunrise. Deboche is ten minutes down, sheltered by forest, quieter and usually a little warmer, with some lodges offering attached bathrooms. We pick Tengboche for festival or puja timing and Deboche when comfort and quiet matter more.

Why is Tengboche Monastery important?

It is the largest gompa in Khumbu and was the first celibate Nyingma monastery in the region, the spiritual centre for Sherpa Buddhism. It trains young monks, stages Mani Rimdu and is visited by Sherpas from every village, as well as by climbers seeking blessings before expeditions.

Can I see Everest from Tengboche?

Yes. On clear days Everest's summit shows above the Nuptse–Lhotse wall, with Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Taboche, Kangtega and Thamserku all around. The view from the meadow in front of the monastery is one of the most photographed on the trek, especially at sunrise and sunset.

What is the best time to visit Tengboche?

October and November bring clear skies and Mani Rimdu. March to May bring flowering rhododendrons in the forest below and milder temperatures. December to February are cold but clear and quiet. June to September is monsoon, often cloudy, with fewer trekkers and some lodges closed.

Is there a bakery in Tengboche?

Yes, Tengboche has a small bakery serving coffee, cakes and apple pie, a famous treat at almost 3,900 m. Opening depends on the season. Supplies are carried up by porters and animals, so prices are higher than in Namche. It is a welcome stop after the climb from Phunki Tenga.

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