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Far West & Karnali · archaeological site

Sinja Valley

सिंजा उपत्यका Yatse (Tibetan name for the Khasa capital)

The Sinja valley in Jumla was the capital of the Khasa Malla kings, who ruled much of the western Himalaya from the 12th to the 14th century. Its temples, stone pillars and cliff inscriptions include some of the earliest writing in the language that became Nepali. It has been on UNESCO's Tentative List since 2008.

  • Stay 1 nights
  • Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Sinja Valley
Photo: Soraj Shahi · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Sinja Valley

Altitude2,440 m27.6% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath74%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils91.7 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-6.8 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,440 m; real days vary with weather.

Ask a historian where Nepali began and they will point to Sinja. This quiet farming valley north-west of Jumla, with rice paddies, flat-roofed stone houses and a river running down to the Karnali, was once the seat of an empire that stretched from Mustang to Uttarakhand and into western Tibet. The Khas language spoken at its court became Khas Kura, then Gorkhali, and finally Nepali.

Little of the royal city survives above ground, but the valley is scattered with traces of it: the Kanakasundari temple on its promontory, shikhara temples at Tarpibada and Bistabara, carved stone memorial pillars, old fountains and the Lihi stupa. Across the Hima river, caves hold votive Buddhist chaityas and cliff inscriptions, a reminder that the Khasa kings patronised Buddhism as well as Hindu gods.

Very few foreigners visit. There are no ticket offices, guides with name badges or souvenir stalls. You walk between monuments that stand in fields and village lanes, with farmers who know the stories passed down in their families. It is best seen with a knowledgeable guide from Jumla, on the way to or from Rara.

Why go

Kanakasundari temple

The Kanakasundari temple, dedicated to a form of the goddess, stands on a promontory above the valley and is the best known monument of Sinja. The local rural municipality takes its name from it. It is an active shrine, busiest at Dashain.

Stone pillars and shikhara temples

Carved stone memorial pillars and shikhara temples at Tarpibada, Bistabara and other sites date from the Khasa period. They stand in fields and village lanes, weathered and unfenced, often with local offerings at their base.

Cliff inscriptions and caves

On cliffs at the valley edge and across the Hima river are inscriptions among the earliest written examples of Nepali, and caves holding votive Buddhist chaityas. A guide is needed to find and read them.

Ripu Malla's inscription at Sahubada

The same Khasa king who left his mark on the Ashokan pillar at Nigali Sagar near Lumbini in 1312 also left a stone inscription at Sahubada in Sinja, linking this valley to the Buddha's birthplace.

Village life in a living valley

Sinja is not a museum. Flat-roofed stone villages, rice terraces, water mills and threshing floors fill the valley, and the old stones stand among them. Walking here is as much about today's farmers as about medieval kings.

१The story of Sinja Valley

The summer capital of a Himalayan empire

From the 12th century a dynasty of Khasa kings ruled from Sinja, which Tibetan sources call Yatse. Their state, often called the Khasa Malla kingdom, grew into the largest power in the western Himalaya. At its height it held land from Mustang in the east to parts of present-day Uttarakhand in the west and Guge and Purang in western Tibet. Sinja was the summer capital; Dullu, lower and warmer in Dailekh, was the winter seat.

The Khasa kings were patrons of both Buddhism and Hinduism. Buddhist practice in the valley dates from at least the early 12th century and lasted until about the 16th; Hindu temples were built from around the 13th century. King Ripu Malla, who left an inscription at Lumbini in 1312, also left one here in Sinja at Sahubada. Cliffs at the edge of the valley carry some of the oldest writing in the Khas language that grew into Nepali.

After the 14th century the empire fragmented into the twenty-two Baise kingdoms, and Jumla, next door, became the leading power. Sinja slipped into obscurity as a farming valley. Excavations later uncovered palace foundations, a network of underground water pipes and a ring of large stone columns around the old settlement. In 2008 Nepal placed the valley on UNESCO's Tentative List for World Heritage.

२The legend
As it is told · सिंजा उपत्यका

Old genealogies of the Khasa kings say the dynasty's founder, Nagaraj, came south from Khari, the Ngari country of western Tibet, and chose the Sinja valley as his capital. Local people add that the Deuda circle dance, now sung across the far west, was first danced in Sinja's royal courtyards, and that it spread from here to the neighbouring hills.

३The people

Who lives here

The people of the Sinja valley are mostly Khas: Chhetri, Thakuri and Brahmin farmers, along with Kami, Sarki and Damai families of blacksmiths, leatherworkers and tailor-musicians. They speak the Khas dialect of Jumla, grow marshi rice, wheat, barley and beans, and keep cattle and sheep. Many still worship the Masto gods at stone dewal shrines, consulting dhami oracles in times of trouble.

Local name: Yatse (Tibetan name for the Khasa capital)

४Words you will hear
Nepali
देवल
Dewal

Small stone shrine, often to a Masto god

Nepali
मष्टो
Masto

Family of local gods worshipped across the Karnali

Nepali
बाइसे
Baise

The twenty-two kingdoms that followed the Khasa empire

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Chino and kaguno

Proso millet (chino) and foxtail millet (kaguno), the old grains of the Karnali, boiled like rice or cooked into a sweet porridge with milk. They grow in Sinja's dry upper fields alongside marshi. Ask your guide to arrange a meal in a village home; they are rarely on lodge menus.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

The Sinja valley was added to UNESCO's World Heritage Tentative List on 30 January 2008, in the cultural category, as the ancient capital of the Khasa kingdom.

Wikipedia: Sinja Valley; UNESCO World Heritage Centre, Tentative List

Excavations in Sinja found a large network of underground pipes that formed a water supply system, and a ring of massive monolithic stone columns around the old settlement.

Wikipedia: Sinja Valley

A stone inscription of King Ripu Malla stands at Sahubada in the Sinja valley. The same king left an inscription on the Ashokan pillar at Nigali Sagar near Lumbini in 1312.

DANAM project, Heidelberg University: Heritage Focus Area Sinja Valley; Wikipedia: Ripu Malla

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Sinja Valley

Road

A rough road links Jumla's Khalanga bazaar to the Sinja valley. A local jeep takes a few hours depending on conditions, which change with every monsoon; check current status before you travel. Most visitors arrange a vehicle and guide in Jumla.

On foot

Walking from Jumla takes one to two days through villages and pine forest. Sinja can also be included in a Jumla–Rara trek, adding one or two days. A licensed guide is required for the national park section of the Rara route.

Air

The nearest airport is Jumla, reached by small plane from Nepalgunj in about 40 minutes. From there continue by road or on foot.

Where to stay

There are no hotels aimed at tourists in Sinja. Trekkers stay in simple village teahouses or family homes arranged by their guide, sleeping on mattresses and eating dal bhat, or camp with a supported trek. If you prefer more comfort, visit Sinja as a long day trip from a guesthouse in Jumla's Khalanga bazaar and return by evening.

Local tips

  • Hire a guide in Jumla who knows the monuments; many are unmarked and hard to find alone.
  • Do not climb on or lean against the stone pillars and temples, which are fragile and sacred to local people.
  • Carry snacks and water; shops in the valley are few and basic.
  • Ask permission before photographing a dhami, a shrine during worship, or people in their homes.
  • Road conditions to Sinja change often, so confirm travel times in Jumla the day before; check current status before you travel.

On the map

Sinja Valley and what is near it

Map of Sinja Valley, Jumla, Rara Lake, DulluIndiaChinaNepalSinja Valley1Sinja ValleyJumla2JumlaRara Lake3Rara LakeDullu4Dullu50 kmN
  1. 1Sinja Valley
  2. 2Jumla
  3. 3Rara Lake
  4. 4Dullu
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Sinja Valley: what travellers ask

Where is the Sinja valley?

Sinja is in Jumla district of Karnali Province, north-west of the district headquarters at Khalanga. A rough road connects it to Jumla, and trekking routes link it to Rara Lake in Mugu. The valley's river flows down to join the Karnali.

Why is Sinja important?

It was the capital of the Khasa Malla kingdom, which ruled much of the western Himalaya from the 12th to the 14th century, and it is regarded as the birthplace of the Nepali language. Its monuments and inscriptions are among the oldest Khas remains anywhere.

How do I get to Sinja from Kathmandu?

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to Jumla, then travel to Sinja by jeep or on foot in one to two days. Road conditions vary greatly, so allow flexibility. Many visitors include Sinja in a trek between Jumla and Rara.

What is the best time to visit Sinja?

September to November gives clear skies, harvest colour and dry paths. April and May are pleasant, with spring planting. Winters are cold with snow, and the monsoon from June to August brings mud, landslides and leeches.

How much time do I need in Sinja?

One full day sees the main monuments; two lets you add the caves and inscriptions across the Hima and a night in a village. If you are trekking to Rara, adding Sinja usually costs one or two extra days.

Is there accommodation in Sinja?

Only simple village teahouses and family homes, arranged by your guide, or camping on a supported trek. There are no tourist hotels. For more comfort, stay in Jumla and visit Sinja as a long day trip, road conditions permitting.

Was Sinja connected to Lumbini?

Yes. King Ripu Malla, who ruled from Sinja, visited Lumbini in 1312 and left an inscription on the Ashokan pillar at Nigali Sagar. He also left a stone inscription at Sahubada in the Sinja valley. The Khasa kings patronised Buddhism as well as Hindu gods.

Do I need a permit to visit Sinja?

No special permit is required for the Sinja valley itself. If you continue to Rara, you need a Rara National Park entry permit and, under current rules, a licensed guide. Check current status before you travel.

Is Sinja suitable for families?

For families used to rough travel, yes, but it suits older children better than toddlers. Roads are bumpy, accommodation is basic and the attractions are historical rather than hands-on. Children who enjoy walking and village life will find plenty to see.

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