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Far West & Karnali · hill town

Jumla

जुम्ला Khalanga (Nepali)

Jumla is the main town of the upper Karnali, a bazaar called Khalanga at about 2,370 m on the Tila river. Once the seat of the powerful Kalyal kings, it is known for the Chandannath temple, red marshi rice grown at extraordinary altitude and crisp apples. It is also the starting point for Sinja and the trek to Rara.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Jumla
Photo: Prashant Shahi · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Jumla

Altitude2,370 m26.8% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath75%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils92.0 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-6.3 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,370 m; real days vary with weather.

Jumla feels like the capital of a different Nepal. The flight from Nepalgunj lands on a short runway beside the bazaar, and within minutes you are walking past stone houses with flat mud roofs, apple stalls and the tall red pole of the Chandannath temple. People here speak a Khas dialect that many Kathmandu Nepalis find hard to follow; in the 2021 census more than half of Jumla's people gave Khas as their first language.

The town proper is Khalanga, set where the Tila river widens into a flat valley of rice terraces. The valley floor is planted with marshi, a cold-hardy red rice that grows here at altitudes where rice normally fails, and the slopes above are covered in apple orchards and pine forest. In late September and October the fields turn gold and red and the whole valley is busy with harvest.

Most travellers spend one or two nights in Jumla on the way to Sinja, Rara or the high trails towards Dolpo and Humla. It is worth slowing down: visit the temples, walk the rice fields along the Tila, hike up to the meadows of Chere Chaur, and eat marshi rice with Jumli beans in a bazaar bhatti.

Why go

Chandannath and Bhairabnath temples

The twin temples at the heart of Khalanga bazaar are Jumla's spiritual centre. Look for the tall red lingo pole, renewed every Dashain, and visit in the evening when bells ring and families light lamps.

Marshi rice on the Tila river

Walk out of town along the Tila to terraces of red marshi rice, one of the highest-grown rice varieties in the world. The harvest in late September and October fills the valley with colour and threshing.

Apple country

Jumla's apples are famous across Nepal, grown in orchards on the slopes above the valley with very little chemical input. In August to October you can buy them by the basket in the bazaar or walk through the orchards.

Chere Chaur meadows

A steep half-day climb above town leads to the open meadows of Chere Chaur, with wide views over the Tila valley and the ranges towards Patarasi. It makes a good acclimatisation hike before Rara.

Gateway to Sinja and Rara

Jumla is the jumping-off point for the Khasa capital at Sinja and for the three-to-four-day trek to Rara Lake, as well as longer routes towards Dolpo and Humla.

१The story of Jumla

From Khasa province to the kingdom of Jumla

Jumla was part of the Khasa Malla empire, whose capital lay a day's walk away in the Sinja valley. When the empire broke up in the 14th century into the twenty-two small hill kingdoms called the Baise Rajya, Jumla emerged as the strongest of them. Around 1404 a ruler named Baliraja, who had married into the old royal line, founded the kingdom of Jumla, and his Kalyal descendants ruled the upper Karnali for nearly four centuries.

At its height Jumla's power reached from Mustang in the east to the hills of present-day Uttarakhand in the west, and in the 18th century it held Mustang itself. Jumla resisted the first Gorkhali attacks, and local tradition says Prithvi Narayan Shah was wounded in battle against it. In 1789, under the regency of Bahadur Shah, Gorkhali troops finally annexed the kingdom.

Under the new state Jumla became a remote district headquarters, reached only on foot or later by small plane. In 2007 the Karnali Highway finally connected it to Surkhet and the south, though the road is still rough and often closed in the monsoon. Today Khalanga is a busy market town of government offices, schools, hotels and apple traders, and a base for travellers heading into the hills.

२The legend
As it is told · जुम्ला

Tradition says a holy man named Chandannath came from Kashmir carrying an image of Dattatreya, and that the temple in Khalanga was built where he set it down. He is also credited with bringing marshi rice to Jumla, having found the valley's seasons like those of Kashmir. Another story says a cow that would give no milk at home let it flow freely on this spot, showing villagers it was sacred.

३The people

Who lives here

Jumla is overwhelmingly Khas: Chhetri families are an outright majority, with Thakuri, Brahmin and Khas Dalit communities such as Kami and Sarki. Most speak Khas or Jumli forms of Nepali. People farm marshi rice, wheat, barley, beans and potatoes, grow apples and walnuts, keep sheep for wool, and many travel to India for seasonal work. The dhami oracle tradition remains strong.

Local name: Khalanga (Nepali)

४Words you will hear
Nepali
मार्सी
Marshi

Jumla's red, cold-hardy rice

Nepali
लिङ्गो
Lingo

Tall sacred pole raised at a temple, renewed at festivals

Nepali
धामी
Dhami

Oracle through whom a local god speaks

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Marshi bhat with Jumli simi

Red marshi rice, slightly nutty and soft, served with a stew of the speckled local beans called Jumli simi, potato curry and ghee. It is the defining meal of Jumla. Any bhatti in Khalanga bazaar will cook it; in autumn ask for the new season's rice.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

In the 2021 census about 51 percent of Jumla district's people gave Khas as their first language and about 43 percent Nepali, a sign of how close Jumla stays to the older form of the language.

Wikipedia: Jumla District

Every year on Ghatasthapana, the first day of Dashain, devotees replace the lingo at Chandannath temple: a timber pole of more than 52 feet painted brick red and hung with a long cloth banner. People believe misfortune follows if it breaks during the change.

Wikipedia: Chandannath Temple

The kingdom of Jumla, founded around 1404, held Mustang from 1760 and resisted the first Gorkhali attacks. It was annexed to the Gorkha state in 1789 during the regency of Bahadur Shah.

Wikipedia: Jumla District

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Jumla

Air

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj (about 1 hour), then take a small-plane flight to Jumla of about 40 minutes, usually in the morning. The airport is at the edge of Khalanga bazaar. Flights are often delayed by cloud; keep a spare day.

Road

Jeeps and buses run from Nepalgunj and Surkhet along the Karnali Highway via Manma to Jumla, typically in 1–2 days depending on road conditions. The road is narrow, partly unpaved and prone to landslides in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

Khalanga bazaar has a range of simple hotels and guesthouses near the airport and the Chandannath temple, used by government staff, NGO workers and domestic travellers. Rooms are basic, usually with attached bathrooms and solar hot water in the better places, and most have a restaurant serving dal bhat with marshi rice. There are no international-standard hotels. In the harvest and Dashain season, book ahead through your agency.

Local tips

  • Fly into Jumla early in the day; afternoon winds and cloud often cancel flights.
  • Carry cash from Nepalgunj; Jumla has a few ATMs but they can run empty or go offline.
  • Buy marshi rice and apples in the bazaar to take home; both travel well.
  • Ask before photographing at the temples, especially during rituals or when a dhami is in trance.
  • If you continue to Rara, arrange your licensed guide and park permit before leaving Jumla; check current status before you travel.

On the map

Jumla and what is near it

Map of Jumla, Sinja Valley, Rara Lake, DulluIndiaChinaNepalJumla1JumlaSinja Valley2Sinja ValleyRara Lake3Rara LakeDullu4Dullu50 kmN
  1. 1Jumla
  2. 2Sinja Valley
  3. 3Rara Lake
  4. 4Dullu
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Jumla: what travellers ask

How do I get to Jumla from Kathmandu?

Fly Kathmandu to Nepalgunj in about an hour, then take a small-plane flight to Jumla of around 40 minutes, usually the next morning. By road it takes about two days via Nepalgunj or Surkhet and the Karnali Highway, on a rough mountain road.

What is the best time to visit Jumla?

September to November is best: clear skies, harvest colour and good trekking weather. March to May is also good, with apple blossom in spring. Winters are very cold with snow, and the June to August monsoon brings landslides on the roads.

Is Jumla worth visiting on its own?

For a night or two, yes, especially for the temples, rice terraces and bazaar. Most visitors combine it with Sinja and Rara. If you have limited time, Jumla is best seen as the start of a Rara trek rather than a stand-alone trip.

Is there altitude sickness in Jumla?

At about 2,370 m, most people feel only mild effects, such as breathlessness on stairs or a light headache the first night. Drink plenty of water and take your first day easy, especially if you flew straight from the plains.

What is the food like in Jumla?

Simple and filling. The staple is marshi rice with Jumli beans, lentils, potatoes and greens, plus buckwheat bread and apples in season. Meat is mostly goat and chicken. Vegetarians eat well. Do not expect Western dishes outside a few hotels.

Is Jumla safe for tourists?

Yes. Jumla is a peaceful district headquarters, and people are welcoming to the few foreign visitors they see. The main risks are road accidents, flight delays and weather in the hills. Travel with a licensed guide or agency for treks beyond the town.

Can I use ATMs and mobile data in Jumla?

Khalanga has a few bank ATMs and mobile coverage with 4G in town, but ATMs can be offline and signal fades quickly outside the valley. Carry enough Nepali rupees for your whole trip from Nepalgunj or Kathmandu.

How far is Sinja from Jumla?

The Sinja valley lies north-west of Khalanga, in the neighbouring rural municipality of Sinja. A rough road now connects them, and jeep times vary widely with road conditions; on foot it is one to two days. Many Rara treks pass through Sinja on the way out or back.

Why is Jumla important in Nepali history?

Jumla was the heartland of the Khasa Malla empire, whose capital was at nearby Sinja, and later the seat of the kingdom of Jumla, the strongest of the twenty-two Baise kingdoms. The Khas language spoken here is the ancestor of modern Nepali.

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