Sleeping Vishnu and a Shivapuri forest climb

We drive 45 minutes north to Budhanilkantha early, when families come with flowers and rice for the great stone Vishnu. Carved in the Licchavi period, the image lies on the coils of the serpent Ananta in a small pond. Only Hindu priests step onto the image itself; visitors can watch from the edge of the tank, and non-Hindus are welcome in the courtyard.

From the park gate just above, a stone and earth trail climbs through oak, rhododendron and pine forest. In two to three hours you reach Nagi Gompa, a nunnery at about 2,100 m where Buddhist nuns study and keep retreats. On clear mornings from October to February the Langtang and Ganesh Himal ranges appear to the north, and the whole valley lies spread out below to the south.

Fitter walkers can push on to the Shivapuri summit at 2,732 m, adding two to three hours. Most return the same way to Budhanilkantha for a late lunch. The forest has barking deer, monkeys and over 300 recorded bird species, and it is the main water catchment for the city. Park entry is payable at the gate and a licensed guide may be required.