Forest descent from Bhimthang to Dharapani

After days above the treeline, the descent from Bhimthang into forest is a relief. The trail drops past the glacier's snout, crosses streams and enters forest of rhododendron, birch and pine. In April the rhododendrons bloom; in autumn the leaves turn gold and red. The walking is easy compared with the days before, mostly downhill on a good trail, but knees take a beating on the steeper sections. Walking poles help. Stop for lunch at one of the small lodges on the way and enjoy being back among trees.

Small settlements and then the larger village of Tilije have lodges and fields. As you descend, the culture shifts from the Tibetan Buddhism of Nubri toward the mixed Gurung, Tibetan and Hindu traditions of the Marsyangdi valley. Tilije is a real village again, with houses, fields and a school, after days of lodges and herders' huts. Your guide can show you how the architecture and dress change as you come down. It is a good place to sleep before the last short walk to the road.

Dharapani, at about 1,860 m, sits on the Marsyangdi river and the Annapurna Circuit road. Jeeps run down to Besisahar, and from there buses and cars to Kathmandu or Pokhara. Check current road status before you travel, as monsoon and recent flood damage can affect routes. At Dharapani your guide checks out your permits at the conservation area post and arranges the jeep. Settle tips for your guide and porters here, in rupees, before the team splits up. Many trekkers spend a night in Besisahar or Pokhara before the long drive back to Kathmandu.