Sunrise on Himlung and Manaslu

Bhimthang's meadow is open on all sides, and on clear mornings the sunrise is spectacular. First light hits the high peaks: Himlung Himal and Cheo Himal to the north, Manaslu's north-west side to the east, and Kang Guru to the west. The snow turns pink, then gold, while the meadow stays in shadow. The colour lasts only 15 to 20 minutes, so be outside before first light. Your guide can name each peak as it lights up. Most lodges serve tea early on request; ask the night before and settle the bill so you are not held up in the morning.

Climb a little onto the lateral moraine behind the lodges for a wider view and a better angle on the glaciers. It is very cold before sunrise, often below minus 5 °C in autumn, so wear your down jacket, hat and gloves. The moraine path is a few minutes from the lodges, but in the dark the stones can be icy; use a headlamp and walking poles. Photographers should bring a spare battery kept warm inside a jacket, since cold drains batteries fast.

Come back for hot tea and breakfast, then start the walk down through the forest toward Tilije. It is the last big mountain morning of the Manaslu Circuit. From here the trail drops below the treeline within a few hours, and the high peaks slip out of sight one by one. Take a last long look before you go. After sunrise, the dining room stove is lit and breakfast is porridge, eggs or Tibetan bread, then the walk down begins.