Hike from Sundarijal to Chisapani

The trail starts where the road ends at Sundarijal, at about 1,390 m. The first hour is a long stone staircase beside the large water pipe that has fed Kathmandu for decades, with the stream below. After about 40 minutes you cross the dam of the reservoir, then climb through forest on the national park's watershed road. The water pipeline and reservoir were built to supply Kathmandu, and the area around them is protected watershed. Go at your own pace on the stairs; there are plenty of places to stop and look back over the city as it shrinks below you.

Mulkharka, a scattered Tamang village at about 1,900 m, has tea shops and a view back over the Kathmandu Valley. From here the path continues up through oak forest, past an army post and into Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, to the pass at Borlang Bhanjyang at about 2,400 m on the rim of the valley. Mulkharka is the last place for a proper tea stop before the pass, so rest here, refill water and buy snacks. Park rangers may check your ticket at the army post or gate, so keep it within easy reach rather than buried in your pack.

From the pass, the trail drops gently through forest and fields to Chisapani. In spring rhododendrons flower red along the way. Arrive by mid-afternoon, take a hot shower and wait for the sunset light on the peaks to the north. Lodges at Chisapani have hot showers, simple rooms and dining rooms with views, and dal bhat is ready by early evening. Nights are cold from November to February, near freezing, so keep a warm layer handy for the terrace. Go to bed early; sunrise is the main event.