Sunrise panorama from Chisapani

Chisapani faces north across the Melamchi and Talamarang valleys to the main Himalayan chain. On a clear morning you see Ganesh Himal to the west, the Langtang range in the centre, and Jugal Himal and Dorje Lakpa to the north-east, often with cloud lying in the valleys below. The best months for this view are October to February, when the air is dry and haze is low. In spring, peaks are often visible only for the first hour after sunrise before haze rises from the valleys. In the monsoon, the view is usually hidden altogether.

Step out of the lodge at about 5.45 am in autumn, or 6.15 am in winter, with a warm jacket and a cup of tea. The first light touches the highest snow peaks, which turn pink, then gold, then white over about 20 minutes. Many lodges have rooftop terraces; the small rise behind the village is even better. Bring a light tripod if you want long-lens shots of the peaks, as the cold makes hands unsteady. Even with a phone, the changing colour of the snow is worth recording. Stay a few minutes after the sun clears the ridge to see the valleys below light up.

Your guide can name the peaks and point out where the treks of Langtang and Helambu run. After sunrise, breakfast, and either continue north to Helambu or walk east to Nagarkot. If cloud hides the view on your morning, ask your lodge if you can wait an hour; it often clears briefly. Many trekkers plan two nights at Chisapani in winter simply to have two chances at the sunrise, and the second morning is often the clearer one.