Food · Rani Mahal
Fried river fish at Ramdi
On the way to or from the Kali Gandaki country, stop at Ramdi, where the Siddhartha Highway crosses the river, for fried fish from roadside stalls with beaten rice, chutney and a view of the bridge.
Ramdi is a small bazaar where the Siddhartha Highway between Tansen and Pokhara crosses the Kali Gandaki on a long bridge. It is known among Nepali travellers for its fried fish, and buses and jeeps pull in all day.
Stalls rub river fish with turmeric, chilli and salt and fry them until the small ones can be eaten bones and all. You eat them with beaten rice, a sharp tomato and chilli chutney and sliced onion, at plastic tables overlooking the river.
It is not refined, but it is one of the classic roadside meals of western Nepal, and it fits neatly into a day of Rani Mahal or Ridi.
Good for
Questions
Is the fish at Ramdi fresh?
Most stalls sell river fish fried to order, and turnover is high because buses stop all day. Supply varies by season, and some fish may come from farms rather than the river. Choose a busy stall, eat it hot and well fried, and you should have no problem.
Where is Ramdi?
Ramdi is on the Siddhartha Highway at the bridge over the Kali Gandaki, on the Palpa–Syangja border between Tansen and Pokhara. It is roughly 1–1.5 hours north of Tansen by road. Travellers between Pokhara and Tansen pass through it.
Are there vegetarian options at Ramdi?
Yes. Most stalls and eateries also serve dal bhat, vegetable curry, noodles and tea. Ask for vegetable pakoda or chana if you want a snack. Tell your guide in advance if you are strictly vegetarian, as shared oil is used for frying.
Also in Rani Mahal
More ways to spend the day
Inside the Taj Mahal of Nepal
A guided visit to the restored palace and its small museum, with the story of Khadga Shumsher Rana: palace politics …
Hike down to Rani Mahal through Rani Ban
A day hike from Kailash Nagar near Batase Danda, about 13 km from Tansen, down through Magar villages and the …
Late light at Rani Ghat
Spend the end of the afternoon on the Kali Gandaki below the palace, watching the light leave the gorge, pilgrims …