Spiritual · Muktinath
The flame on water in Mharme Lhakhang
Visit the small Buddhist temple beside the Muktinath shrine where a blue flame of natural gas burns next to running water, revered by Hindus as Jwala Mai and by Buddhists as proof that the five elements meet here. Quiet, dim and easy to overlook.
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Mharme Lhakhang, the 'temple of the flame', stands a short walk below the main Vishnu shrine. Hindus know it as the temple of Jwala Mai, the goddess of the flame. Inside, beneath the altar, small openings in the rock let out natural gas that burns as a steady blue flame, right beside a trickle of spring water. In the dim light you need to kneel and look closely. Your guide will show you where to look.
For both faiths, the sight of fire and water together, rising from the earth in a place swept by wind under the open sky, means that all five elements are present here. Buddhist tradition holds that Guru Rinpoche left a statue in his own likeness in this temple before going on to Tibet, and the nuns of Muktinath still look after it. Hindu pilgrims bow to the flame as the goddess herself.
The temple is small and usually busy in the late morning, so come early or in the afternoon. A nun or caretaker is often present and will lift the curtain to show you the flame. Leave a small donation, remove your shoes and do not use flash. We combine it with the dawn visit to the 108 spouts, finishing here as the sun warms the grove. Allow about 45 minutes, including the walk between the two shrines.
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Questions
Is the flame at Muktinath real?
Yes. The flame in Mharme Lhakhang (Jwala Mai temple) is natural gas escaping from the ground beneath the altar, burning beside a small flow of spring water. It burns steadily, though its size changes. Pilgrims of both faiths regard it as sacred. You may need to kneel and look closely, as it is small and partly hidden.
What is Jwala Mai temple?
Jwala Mai, 'mother of the flame', is the Hindu name for the small temple near the Muktinath shrine where natural gas burns beside water. Buddhists call it Mharme Lhakhang and believe Guru Rinpoche left a statue of himself there. It is part of the same temple complex and both Hindus and Buddhists worship in it.
Can I take photos of the Muktinath flame?
Rules vary and are set by the nuns and caretakers. In many cases photography of the flame and statues inside is discouraged or not allowed, and flash is never appropriate. Ask the caretaker politely and accept the answer. Photography of the outside of the temple and the grounds is usually fine.
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